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Classifieds => For Sale / Want to Buy => Topic started by: Gearhedd on January 01, 2003, 06:15:38 PM

Title: A Heads-Up to those who may be interested...
Post by: Gearhedd on January 01, 2003, 06:15:38 PM
Hey All -

First off, Happy New Year !!!!!

I'm seriously considering selling my '90 TGP.  It's black/tan, leather, pwr sunroof, stock am/fm cassette, RKE, etc.  I've had it a bit over 4 yrs, and in the time I've owned it, I've had the wheels trued and re clear-coated, replaced struts all around (front ones x 2), car has decent tires, Jeff M. X-over and 160 (stg 3, I think) chip and thermostat, and I've replaced ABS brake unit and lines (due to leaking rear ABS housing)with normal vacuum booster power brake setup.  I still have all the original parts to convert back to ABS, including a good accumulator (replaced shortly after buying the car).  Engine is smooth & strong, trans is strong, brakes are good, but front may need new pads (I'll try to get that done when I replace front strut bearings later this month).  Rear calipers have new slides and are not stuck.  Motor mounts are new within the past year or so.  Gauge cluster has been re-soldered and speedo calibrated, no more false warning lights, and speedo/odo/tach all work.  Overall, the car is in good shape and everything is functional, but it isn't perfect.

There is a ding in the rt. rear panel under the tailight.  The rt. hood louvers are loose, it needs the retaining screw bases re-glued or resined back in place.  Front facia is partially split in the front middle and sagging.  Rt frt fender had a mooned-in area just behind the front sidemarker light, but I have a good used TGP black fender to replace it with.  Also have some other body and interior parts that will go with the car, just haven't had time to put them in/on.  Front seats show wear with a few cracks in leather, rear ones look almost new.

Appearance - Paint would look good with a buff and wax, but will probably need painted eventually.  Still has all original TURBO badges on it.  Car has about 175k on it, but odometer only shows 148-149k (it wasn't working when I bought it - see above).

Mechanical - A/C not working, I assume needs new/rebuilt compressor and recharged.  Won't start in warm weather with key, but I have a solenoid jumper wire setup under the hood.  I haven't had the time to track down where the voltage drop in the harness is, but I'm assuming it is a loose/corroded terminal in the firewall connector body.  Starts fine with the key in colder weather.  Engine cradle/control arm mount is still an issue, but I'm hoping to get this corrected before selling it.  It is a good, solid, almost stock TGP, with a few issues that do need some attention.  I will try to get as many of these taken care of before selling it as I'm able to.

My reason for selling is simply a lack of time to do the necessary repairs to get it up to where I would like it to be, along with my family's financial needs.  Main source of irritation is the starting problem, and it drifts to the right (caster problem from the right control arm mount being bent).  I want to get all mechanical issues corrected that I'm able to before I sell it, but I wanted to be up front about what it needs at the present time.  I don't currently have any pics, but if anyone interested will email me, I can get you some in a couple of days.  I'm planning on starting with an asking about $2500, but will be open to considering reasonable offers.  Also, if this price is unreasonably high to start with (for those who are knowledgeable), please let me know and I will consider revising it.  Some suggestions of a fair starting price (if $2500 isn't) would be appreciated.

Let me know if you're interested, I'm in the Central Indiana area (Anderson)

Thanks !!!!!

Brian J
Gearhedd
Title: won't start
Post by: sleeperred90tgp on January 16, 2003, 03:41:09 PM
I had the same problem starting. When it was hot it wouldn't start unless I bypassed the neutural start switch with a jumper to the starter. I finally just put a wire rope clamp around the two wires at the nss and taped it up. Worked great accept it will start in any gear. Gotta remove the left front wheel and the wires are rite there. My switch was in alignment but still wlold not work when hot. Just tell who ever you sell it to that you did that. I wouldn't want to begin to replace that switch. Do you pull the motor or the tranny???

There the two largest wires. One from the ign switch which will be hot in start and the other goes to the starter selonid. You have already found that. Sorry your getting rid of it.javascript:emoticon(':(')