i redid my check gauges light and the good news...(i'm not an electronics wiz) is that the light does not com on now but the bad news is that my tachometer and speedometer are stuck at 0 and will not move.......did i screw it up somhow by resoldering the check gauges light or did i simply forget somthing else? please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :oops:
Make sure all the connectors are tight. If by chance you frayed some wires, the tach signal wire is white and the VSS is dark green.
the connections are tight ..... i think it might have something to do with the fact that the connectors for the check gauges are all one circuit now :oops: my soldering skills suck... :roll: but right now i am going to try to fix it ( whatever it may be) im gonna redo the solder job and c if that does the trick then i dont know what to do............ :?
the connectors r tight and the check gauges light doesnt com on but the tach and speedo dont wrk.... :evil: i heard that it could possibly be a fusible link......it sure sounds like it could be does anyone kno the closest link tothe gauge cluster? :?:
A fuseable link will kill the car, you can send the speedo to Shawn Lin he will resolder it for you, but I dont know if it might cost a little more since you may have created moore work for him... :shock:
:drinking: :crazyeyes:
http://www.w-body.com/service/checkgauges.html
if the solder is touchin one another. then heat it back up and clear the solder w/ a sucker. you can get them cheap. then start fresh w/ new solder and try not to get them touching.
I plan on redoing mine here soon and then sealing them w/ hot glue :)
Shane
A couple little tricks for soldering.
1) If you are soldering a joint close to another in a sperate circuit, use a piece of white tag board to keep the solder from touching the other circuit. It will discolor the tag board, but wot burn through unless you actually touch it with the iron. It's worked for me many times.
2) Use the smallest tip you can get for the iron for those types of joints. Mine is almost a needle point, and in most cases I dont even need to use the tag board trick
3) Use thin solder and a paste flux, as rosin core solder is quite a bit thicker.
These should help to ensure a proper, no problem joint.