:cheers:

end of an era, it's been fun.

I just went with a front mounted intercooler and 2.8 radiator. this OEM is good condition. 75$ and you pay shipping. thanks

I get alot of excess run time and the lights vary. Sometimes i'll get a flashing antilock, sometimes it's solid and sometimes it's simply off. This sudden "delay" was spontaneous with its initial appearance, meaning I had zero issues with the unit (other than the pump running alot) and then wham. Everyday, every time. Gotta give yourself like 5 extra car lengths. But the other day I slid in some driveway gravel, and lo and behold the pedal chattered and the unit worked perfectly and stopped me right there.

So it's intermittent. I'm sure I need a brake fluid flush but still. It won't boost the brakes until way to late. Anyone but me would end up in a ditch.

Well does anyone know of a suitable replacement accumulator P/N?

Sure it's been asked a thousand times but my internet search time has been limited lately to say the least.

Well beyond my immediate issue at hand, I'd love to have a copy for reference. Wondering if anyone's got it in pdf yet.

What it's doing is odd. I know I need an accumulator ball, mines way low. However, I may have another issue. You hit the brakes slowly they remain unboosted until the pedal is half way down, sometimes more. Then after about 4-5 seconds of holding the pedal at that depth, it will finally "boost" my brakes and throw you through the windshield if your not careful. At that point you have full brakes. Until you release them of course.

Worked fine since I've got it, this just happened out of no where.

Anyone got a manual/guide possibly pdf format?

I'm reaching, but if anyone would have one it'd be one of our members.

I've also decided to go with the hks super sequential blow off. I've heard of preference for the hks over most others.

Pictures soon

Sorry no posts recently. Had a kid, and things slowed down. Getting back into it since things are settling. I had a custom turbo built from turbonetics.

T3/T4 hybrid 60 series compressor

Specs :

Custom T3 Turbo with 60 Series Compressor
  - Compressor Wheel: HPC-64 Billet
  - Bearing: Ceramic Ball Bearing
  - Cooling: Oil and Water Cooled 16MM
  - Turbine Wheel: F1-62
  - Turbine Housing: T3 4 Bolt Inlet / 5 Bolt Discharge
  - Turbine Housing A/R: .63


Ill get more photos soon.

I think what we really want to see is the headers and downpipe. Custom built I'm assuming. Still interested in a picture!

Agreed, however the idea is to make the radiator available new, plus it gets that intercooler unblocked from direct air.

Hope the mods agree with my posting location..

Anyway, we're all aware of the radiator curse bestowed upon us.

Here's what I did.

I found locally, and bought, a gold grand prix, '89, 42,xxx miles 2.8 running great. Drove it home, knowing it's nothing but parts.

Salvage is going to be where most of you end up if you attempt this,  but here it goes:

I went on ebay, first and foremost, and bought, after carefully measuring my limited air damn deminsions, a aftermarket intercooler and a separate universal tubing kit (2.5 in).

I then obtained a heavy duty trans. cooler, lines and hoses. Some are rubber lines and some custom flared hard line. The next step was remove the entire stock air intake tubing and replaced it with the k&n cone filter (thx flybynite for the part #) that mounts directly on the turbo.

Remove the old intercooler, radiator, and coolant reservoir. These are specific to our models of course. I then ran my tubing for the intercooler, mounted it and hooked it up. Same with my trans cooler lines. Unfortunately I spent quite some time fabricating mounts (I insist on a professional appearance) but it was worth the work. Next i bought a new radiator for the base grand prix and installed it along with the 2.8 hoses, used the dual fan setup from my gold GP, along with my coolant resourvoir, which sits where our stock air filter housing once did, and then tidied up all my loose ends and double checked my work.

Besides the radiator rarity problem, I moved my intercooler to direct air flow, doubled my radiator size, can use a stock 2.8 radiator which most parts houses have on the shelf, added a cooling fan, added a large transcooler, allowed for better air intake with the k&n filter, and made my resourvoir easier to access and moved it above the radiator.

I must mention I used dozens of mounting brackets and other miscellaneous hardware (bolts, screws, etc..) from my parts car. Its a journey but it's way worth it. I'll try to get pictures soon. Thought I'd share :)

Put a new ecm in it. The car is a different animal. I pulled it out and swapped the memcal, it runs great. Not sure why it failed but at least that's over with.

Thanks for the input, guys.

I cut the cat off early on. It seemed to breath better, but didn't fix this issue. Had a local muffler shop weld in some pipe.

The first time I replaced the pump I reused the pulsator and did use a standard pump. Second time I tossed it and put some injector hose in its place. Also put a walbro in and that fixed the drain back issue. But it hasn't fixed my misfire. At this point it's had everything swapped out twice. I mean, could this be an ecm issue? The long starts, misfires, it smells like it gets way to much fuel. You can smell it at the tailpipe something awful. Can't handle high rpms without bogging down. It's still a stock ecm. I'm just shooting it the dark here guys.

Plus it will cut fuel with minimal boost. If you do happen to catch it running okay, as soon as you give it gas and, according to the stock gauge, 4-5 psi, it cuts fuel. You get the check engine light for like 15 seconds and then it's restored.

Gotta be a short somewhere?

Got the injectors in, didn't really fix anything. But did narrow things down a little, I think. It's draining fuel back into the tank just minutes after shutting it down, leading me to also assume the hard first starts are for directly related. New injectors eliminated the risk of injector leakage, though there is a also a new pressure regulator.

We're thinkin the lack of power and misfire is due to some fuel going right back down to the tank, the psi is only around 30. Question is, where is the anti drain back located on a TGP? In the pump, in the regulator? If so, they've both been changed.


Couldn't help but notice a round aluminum drum coming straight off what I believe to be my return line, just off the fuel rail. Any idea what this is because I can't find anything on it, and I'm wondering if that's playing part. But you can hear fuel returning to the tank.

The only code being thrown is 31, which is cam sensor, which I don't have, and/or the boost solenoid, but i get a fuel cut at high boost and then get a check engine light for a few seconds, then when the computer restores fuel it goes off. I dismissed code 31 as being left over from one off those instances, since it doesn't throw the light, but is present when you pull the codes.

Anyway I've got some yellow tops and they've been flow matched to 3%. I'm going to put them in this weekend, hopefully it's a problem solver. The fuel cut could be related to bad injectors? Maybe? I know the pcm is cutting the fuel, but possibly due to excess resistance from and injector?