Quote from: TookyCatDon't need to pull the hood.  I just did mine 2 weeks ago.  It's close but they will pop right out.

I just did mine also. Use your head to hold the hood up while you replace it strut. And be sure to wash your hair afterwards. :wink:

Check your CV joints you may have a ripped boot throwing grease on the sensor. When my boot ripped my ABS light would come on all the time after driving for a bit and would never store a code or anything.

Quote from: TGPilotWhat is the identifier code on your chip? AZRC?

Well I have the chip in my hand right now so I'll give you all the numbers on it. On the chip cover it reads "DELCO ATMK 5205". On the chip itself it reads "DELCO J251" and the other numbers on the chip are; 16045915, AD27C256, E 5012AC, U92413MSX. And on the side of the ship it has "68767" and "8930". I was under the impression that Jeffs chips had "Top Gun" or something of the sort on them if I'm not mistaken. Unless I've missed something or a sticker fell off To me this is a stock chip. If i'm wrong I appaulogize to Jeff and everyone else on this forum.

I know that this really isn't that on topic but has anyone ever wondered what the list of production options that you find in your trunk stood for? Because I have a GM Productions Options list that starts in 1987 and ends 1999 that is 104 pages long along with the vin decoder for those years. It also has trucks too.

So for my car

  1G5WP14V2LF217754

1: U.S.A. Built                                  
G: General Motors                              
5: Pontiac Incomplete                        
WP: Grand Prix SE                  
1:Two Door Coupe/ Sedan                
4: Automatic Seat Belts                    
V: 3.1 V6 FI Built in United States (As opposed to the NA 3.1 built in Mexico or Canida)    
2: Check Digit                                
L: 1990 Model Year                          
F: Fairfax II KS and Flint (T&B) MI              
217754: Production Sequence Number

So the Turbo Grand Prix are the only v6 Grand prix that was built entirely in the United States.

Just curious about the exhaust on the 1st gen w-bodys. Would the exhaust off a 2nd gen work on ours not as a direct bolt on but routing wise. because my ideal exhaust would be one of these (preferably the first one) with the same high flow cat I have on it right now.

http://www.corsaperformance.com/grandprix.htm

http://www.borla.com/applications/lookup.aspx/2000/Pontiac/Grand+Prix/GTPT-304_Stainless_Steel_Cat-Back_System/14803/

I have yet to replace my x-over nor have I gotten Jeffs chip and my car has stopped stalling :D . It used to stall everytime I stopped the car. But the more I drive the car the better the problem gets. I also have cleaned my upper but not my lower intake plenum, vacuum ports on the throttle body (1/8 inch of carbon build up), replaced my IAC and TPS. That made a noticable improvement. But the biggest improvement came when I took my fuel injectors out, cleaned all the injector holes in the intake manifold (each one was full of dirt), replaced all the o-rings, and cleaned each individual injector by hand with throttle body cleaner.

I don't mean to put down Jeffs parts at all I would just like to let everyone on this site know that you can get these cars running without Jeffs chips. All I'm saying is if you actually fix the problem by replacing the proper part you're going to help a lot more people out down the road. I just like it when things are done properly thats all.

So please try to actually find out whats wrong with the car before you start swaping out chips (sorry Jeff). :oops:

Quote from: GangstGPright on man that would be cool 8) Hows the TGP coming along?

Shes coming along great. I finally got the engine running to the point I can drive it every day. No oil, powersteering, antifreeze, brake fluid, or transmission fluid leaks. The car still idles a smidge rough at 500 RPM but hey it idles at 500 RPM! I have the carpet out of it right now (water leak) and I'm going to make a part from alunimum to fix the problem. The door pannels are off because I'm re-upholstering them (black and tan two tone). I'm replacing all four shocks this week and fixing a broken bolt on the engine. So in about two or three weeks I'll be completely finished buying replacement parts for this car, well major replacement parts anyways. But I have not had any problems with the car for about 6 months and I drive it 4 days a week ( I trade off between cars).  :D

Quote from: GangstGPI got some rain-x brand wiper blades. first it looked like the 20s were too small when I compared them so I returned them and got 21s. apparently they were longer and you can see where the old 20s left an impression over the years. Has anyone used these for a while with no problems? I dont want them to ruin the seal around the windshield, but they barely touch the edge, and so far I like them.

I've had the rain-x wiper blades on my Aurora for the past 3 months now and they work great. My friend has had them on his truck now for 6 months with no noticable problems (drying out, jumping across the windshield that sort of thing)8) . To fix your wipers from hitting the mouldings take the bolts of the wiper arms. Then Use I fairly thick common screwdriver to pry the arms off. Now under the wiper arm is a round plastic piece that has an area that is raised up to properly set the wiper arms. Use an adjustable wrench, grab it firm and pull the piece out just enough to get it loose but dont break it then take it off by hand. Just remeber how the piece was set before you took it off so you can reposition it so the wiper arms are lower.

Or you can adjust the wipers at the actual wiper motor (the bolt that connects to the pivot assembly) and reposition it there.  I myself actually had to reposioton it at the wiper arms because mine went 5 inches off my windshield . No they dont even come close to hitting those mouldings.  :cry:

Quote from: GangstGPwtf  are you serious about the relay man? or is that you poking fun about it being easy as a relay, is the relay not under the plastic cover under the hood or something?

I'm serious the relay is under the dash on the passenger side (inside the car).The relay is farther back behind the blower motor under the passenger dash area. Tell you what I'm going to be working on my TGP all this week (Need to fix my water leak so I'll have the blower motor out) and I'll get you a picture of the exact location of the blower motor relay.

Quote from: dbtk2Before I replaced the dash in my TSTE the speedo read a little over 20% fast, and the tach read like 25-30% high.  With the new dash the speedo is right on, and it appears that, if anything, the tach reads a little low.  I was told the rev limiter is set to 6212rpm, and the car looks to hit the limiter at like 6100, so the tach is probably very accurate as well.  However, in the 2 door tgp the speedo and tach appear to be about 7% fast...but the HUD is right on.

So the gauges being off is something that you should really expect with these cars.

Shawn

I did the exact same thing and now mine is dead on too. My tach said the car was idling at 1200 RPM (after it was completely warmed up) but it sounded to much like 600 RPM to me. And the speedo was 20 MPH high but my HUD was correct. After I got My cluster back from GM the speedo is right on with my HUD and my car registers 500-600 RPM idle. But well worth every penny to get it fixed.

OK,I have some good news and some really bad news on this subject. I have actually had to replace BOTH the blower motor and the relay. And I'll be honest with you the motor is not that hard but the relay is a bitch. First off, the blower motor is located under the dash on the passenger side of the car. There is a Plastic cover under the dash that is held in place by three (I think) plastic clips that needs to be removed first. Then if you have a flashlight you should be able to see the blower motor and the relay.

  Now the bad news. To get the blower motor out you need two different size sockets. I'm not 100% sure because its been about two years since i've done this, but I think you need a 7mm and a 5.5mm (yes I'm sure of this one a 5.5mm). Now for the rest of the bad news........ the relay. The relay is pretty far back out of reach but not impossible to get to. And like I said it is a bitch to get out. I recommend (well actually this is how I did it) reclining the pass. seat back all the way down and laying in the seat with your head t'ward the floor. Or just sit down next to the car and work on it from there.

  Just for comfort reasons this is not an impossible task just one that requires a lot of time and patients. If you have at least one of those you should not have a problem. 8)

Quote from: PeteTGPI Have a 90 TGP......just rebuilt the turbo, new fuel pump, water pump, fan and fan motor, new cat, plugs and wires etc.  I can ease into the gas pedal and the car will run slowly but when I push hard on the gas petal the car wants to stall and makes no power.  I'm at a loss right now.  Has anyone had that problem or any ideas.  Thanks.......Pete

I used to have a similar problem. When at a dead stop I would mash the gas pedal the car would sound like it was going to stall. And as soon as you let off the gas the sputering went away.  I think that it is possible that your fuel injectors are DIRTY not actually bad. And the more I drove my car at highway speed the cleaner the injectors got. What I actually ended up doing is pulling the injectors out and cleaning each one with throttle body clean (yes I know probably not the best way to do it but it worked).

My oppologies i was not very specific on what I fixed. :oops:

http://pictures.sprintpcs.com/i/91251782021_3300_4.jpg?ext=.jpg&border=2,255,255,255,1,0,0,0,0&outquality=90

http://pictures.sprintpcs.com/i/91251742341_3300_2.jpg?ext=.jpg&border=2,255,255,255,1,0,0,0,0&outquality=90

I re-caulked (re-sealed) the HVAC inlet. It had like a foamish sealant around the opening but the water was going right through it. I know, I know it looks like crap but it works. I was just in a hurry when i did that plus no ones ever going to see it anyways.

And I'm sorry Jeff I had already put everything but my carpet back in before your post  :cry: . But I will be taking the dash out again to fix my radio wiring that is just hanging down behind the radio.

Dude I'm 6'5" and fit in my TGP perfectly. And I still would have room to use a clutch if mine had one :cry: . I also have room to fit 3 5' 11" friends in comfortably.

Ok I found one leak, it was from where the blower motor sucks in air by the wiper motor.  I took my entire interior out (including Carpet) and my wiper assembly out, put a hose were the wipers were and sat in my car. To my suprise the water was just pouring in.  I mean it was like a river flowing in my car. So I re-sealed the opening and that fixed one leak the other is from my windshield molding somewhere. I need to track that one down but it wasn't leaking in enough water to notice. Thanks for all your help I really appreciate it.  :D