https://annarbor.craigslist.org/cto/d/ann-arbor-1990-pontiac-grand-prix-turbo/6978584686.html

There's a lot of underbody rot, and I don't have a title in my name because RI is shit (I do have a trail of paperwork proving I own it, just not good enough paperwork for the state of MI, apparently).

Engine has about 1k on a rebuild. It's mostly been sitting for the past ten years. Every once in a while, I'd have a burst of energy and start working on it again, but dealing with the rust and the title bs has pushed me to just want to be done with it. I have a partially tuned chip for it, but I never finished tuning it. I have the ALDL USB cable and an Ostrich 2.0 and a chip burner that will go with it.

Please somebody buy it, or pass it along. I have no energy to part it, but I really want to be rid of it. It has so many good / basically new / rare parts on it and I'd hate myself for scrapping it.

For someone on here or on w-body or on 60degree, I might be able to help transport it within the Michigan/Ohio-ish area. Maybe. Not sure if U-Haul will allow me a full-trailer for my Dakota. PS rear trailer arm is gone, so there's no way I would put it on just a tow dolly.

I know this thread is hella old, but I wanted to post an updated link to the thread on 60degreev6 that mars had linked to ("the thread that started it all"):

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/32461-Wideband-Logging-was-Tunerpro-RT-datalog-aldl-def

A normal 4T60 will asplode. I don't know how long it will take, but it will, sooner than later.

I'm trying to properly retune my TSTE for having a Getrag 282, Crane H260 cam and Ford C302 (yellowtop) injectors. The motor's just a rebuilt 3.1. I've been using TunerPro RT with Ostrich 2.0. I don't have a wideband (I know, that's my first problem). But I'm trying to at least get idle/vacuum driving tuned without much luck.

I kinda need somebody with some experience that might be able to spot other problems that need to be fixed prior to tuning. I've spent a lot of time trying to retune the fuel tables, first by finding a happy BPC then by tuning the RPM & vacuum fuel tables (I've also tried messing with nAst1, but don't want to delve any further into it at this point). I think I may have some voltage problems too, so I'm going to try replacing ground/power cables and the alternator. I believe that I have the basic methodology down, but I want to make sure I'm at least going in the right direction, or for someone with a better 'feel' for this who might be able to give me a hand.

I'm in North Kingstown, RI. Car is currently not road capable (due to tuning) nor legal, but it can at least be driven around the neighborhood at low speed, for now.

kthx.

hi Robert,

This code setup for a stock TGP build with an automatic, correct?

These are just some links I've accumulated over the past year or so.
I'm including links to PDF copies of the pages hosted on my site, in case the original links go down (which for some of them seems likely in the near future).

carprogrammer.com - How GM Electronic Fuel Injection Works
carprogrammer.com - How GM Electronic Fuel Injection Works (PDF Backup)

gnttype.org - Understanding Block Learn Multiplier (BLM)
gnttype.org - Understanding Block Learn Multiplier (BLM) (PDF Backup)

moates.net - Using Dual Power Willem Universal EPROM Programmer w/27SF512 (by Kenny)
moates.net - Using Dual Power Willem Universal EPROM Programmer w/27SF512 (PDF Backup)


And then a couple of useful links on this forum, as well:

HOW TO: Tune TGP Code :) (by scott0999 - getting everything together & getting started)
IAC steps w/ 3400 5spd turbo (5 speed stalling help)
Idle surge with bigger injectors (rough idle help)

Your cluster is probably plenty fucked up like the rest of ours, but if your HUD is reading zero too, then there's definitely a problem further upstream. As I think i saw mentioned, you need to check the wires going from the VSS to the ECM and the wire going to the cluster/HUD as well for continuity. I guess there's also the possibility of a bad ECM, but of course check the wires first.

If the wires are broken from the VSS to the ECM, the car would probably run awful, if at all.

Would be great it you could change TunerPro to show just the dashboard as a fullscreen view. I've been thinking about setting up something like this forever, but there's too many other problems to worry about first. It would be great in combination with an Ostrich too, I'm sure.

This is good info, thanks guys.

Looks like I have more investigating to do, since my rail pressure is only around 33 lbs running... *sigh*

1) What is the standard fuel rail pressure that the C302s would be running at in a Ford?

2) What exactly is everyone basing their "~22 lbs/hr" figure off of for running the yellow tops in our cars?

No probs, I can wait a bit. I appreciate it.

I've been using Tunerpro RT to datalog. I don't have the actually .bin file that's on the chip currently, however.

I took the car for a drive last night.. it runs like total asshole in open loop, then rpms cycle between 500-1300 and it usually stalls. either within a few seconds or after a minute. It's been hard starting too, taking quite a few cranks to get it going, and it's not a strong start. In closed loop, the idle is much steadier, but it's definitely not strong.

The BLM was sitting right at the max at 156 for most of the cruise I went on.. I finally bought a fuel pressure tester so I'm going to see what kind of rail pressure I'm getting. I'm wondering if maybe the FPR is bad. It dropped to 134 once it fell below 2 mph, then steady climbed right back up to 156.

It also seems that my voltage is very low, sometimes dipping into the 11s. I know the Cutlass used to run around 13.5 when running, might try swapping alternators. Hopefully I don't have a ground problem, I don't want to open up that can of worms again. It seems when I was decelerating, either due to slow engine speed or hitting the brakes (lights + pump), is when voltage when start dipping into the 12s. Battery is only a month old.

Sent ya an e-mail.

Ugh, I'm trying to read the chip Davis burned for me with my Willem programmer, but I must be messing up the configuration because I'm reading back almost all 0 bits. It's a 29C256. I plugged it back into the car and it definitely still runs the same, so I didn't erase or short anything.

I was able to read an older 27C256 chip I had laying around no problem. Might try burning the base 5 speed program I have to a blank 27SF512 chip to see if I can do that successfully, and if it runs.

The pump is the same as factory, and the injectors are rated less than ours at Ford fuel rail pressure but they're about evened out with ours. I know it could still stand some tuning with those, but imho the bigger differences are the cam/rockers. A tune for LS1 injectors for me will probably run pig rich, but I'm open to try it for sure. Yea, I can burn. I have a couple of virgin spare chips laying around.

Davis had burned me the original chip knowing what cam setup I was going with, and I trust in his chip tuning abilities, but I know some progress has been made in the past few years in getting the 5 speed conversions to run better. But yea, I'd appreciate if you could look through your stash and send anything my way that you think might be helpful. Thanks Ken

Tony

Hey guys, just trying to eliminate some factors here before I buy more new parts. I originally bought a chip from Davis that he had worked over for a 5 speed swap, I think it was one of his original tunes. But the car's still running kinda like shit (does a lot of bucking that Josh always had a problem with).

I'm still running the T25, Crane H260 cam w/ 1.6 rockers, new EP375 fuel pump, half the sensors are new, checked/fixed all the wiring in the injector/TB harness, vacuum lines look good. Just installed brand new Ford C302s and it seems to run much better after it learned the idle, but it still bucks quite a bit and idled pretty high in neutral after I took it for a drive. Before it relearned the idle, it was running violently, running up to ~1200 rpm then almost stalling while idling. Then it seemed like it became steadier and more normal (~700rpm) than I've ever seen it. I haven't had a chance to really get on it to see what it does, it's not registered yet so I've just been driving it around the neighborhood, plus the motor's only got ~300 miles on it still.

Anyway, next plans are to try another FPR or ICM/coilpacks or ECM and I should probably try changing the fuel filter too, but I wanted to see if anyone has another known good bin that I could try too.

Sorry, I figured you could judge if it was actually overheating but you kept mentioning 210 so I wanted to be sure. Tough to gauge level of knowledge through forum posts lol.

So just a leaking radiator then?