I find them tables don't do jack.  You have to tune with the VE tables.

Quote from: flybynite on September 30, 2009, 05:55:05 PM
If you know and understand 8f it is a awesome code that is easy to manipulate..   ;)  
I have used the $59 3 bar code on many GN's its pretty cool but it has it's limits just like 8f..   :icon_frown:

True enough, once you get the BPC dialed in close, it tunes quite easily, BUT,  I know Autotune and Wideband closed loop control would have saved me ALOT of time in perfecting my chip.  I'm happy with the 8F though, I just think this will be much easier to tune.  I guess I'll find out.

Quote from: scott0999 on September 30, 2009, 05:12:30 PM
mars,

did you get a chance to drive around with $59? or just idle?

Just idle.  I had a crappy 2 bar resistor mod thing going to fake a 3 bar, I didn't want to start my tunning on that, then have te -retune later.  I also want to get Ford Green tops for tunning.  My red tops aren't cutting it.


It would run on this setup I'm sure just by how it idles...  I gave it throttle too and no stumbles, ect.  How long was yours running on Code59 ?

Thought I'd update this, but my car now idles and runs on Code59 !  And tunning just got a WHOLE lot easier.

No more messing with the lame 8F files that don't make any sense and wierd boost cuts for no reason, 5 spd patches that are junk, lol ect......

More details here :

http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/code50nine-base-bin-file-t110554.html

It was the work of slowolej  and SixShooter that got everything going I didn't do much of anything really.

WB tunning, Autotune, it's pretty much nothing short of awsome.

Can't you just use a 3 bar map with the 2 bar code and start tunning.  Computer will "think" you're at 15 psi, but you'll be at 30...

I'd like to try that one day.  But I'll stay at 13 psi a few more years, so until then I won't be trying it.

You would lose some resolution, but IMHO it can run smoothly.  I've run a 2BAR on a N/A application and it runs very well.

I just realised that this thread is almost older than I am...

:laugh:

I always heard GM units were the best and MSD's are garbage.  No first hand experience though.

yeah, you can do that.

You have the 7730 which is the same computer as me.  I have a '91 Z24, running the tgp code.  (mine is boosted, but n/a it would still run ok after a tune)

You will still need a 2 bar MAP sensor though, the computer would be flustered if you kept the 1 bar in there.

AC delco all the way in these motors. R42LTS

Close the gap for high boost / RPM

I am a bit under 0.030" gap, any larger and it was snuffing the spark over 6400 RPM @ 15 psi.

Haha, the only reason I still have axles is because of the tires I am running.

Radials are killers on the track for driveline parts.

Real good read here : http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=42&i=23811&t=23811

Basically explains that wrinkle wall tires absorb the shock loads that radials wouldn't.  My M&H Bias ply sports won't turn the car worth a damn, but they sure do wrinkle the sidewalls and absorb that shock on the launch, and wheelhop is 100% non existent here with the bias ply tires.

1.9 is the best I can do with the 3000RPM two - step rev limiter.  (he he, I use the park / neutral rev limiter as a two-step, and it works most excellent.)

I bet if I'd launch at 6500, and hook, I'd shave a tenth there or so.

I've never really went for all out personal bests with the car, I braket race it and usually row the gears nice and slow so as not to miss a gear, and launch at 3K to not spin out.

All on the modified TGP .bin file...  No other management of any kind, daily driver.

Mods since the last posting are water/meth injection (added more timing),  a WOT cam grind # 1429 with an LSA of 110, and DOT M&H racemaster Street/Strip tires.

Yeah, it's mostly the rear bags and MH's....

I have a nice hi-res pic of the tires doing a nice dirty old wrinkle wall on the launch, I have it framed on my computer desk here.

Bias ply FTW

I run it...

alcohol water @ 50/50 mix.

It works well to cool down the intake charge.  Install nozzle before the IAT sensor and it will sense cooler air and bump timing on it's own.  I have mine to activate at 3 psi.  quick math showd I needed a 6.1 gph nozzle and I am using a 5 gph.  Keeps the inside of the engine free of carbon buildup ect...  I haven't tried to tune more timing into the mix yet though.  I'll do that later on.

No ill effects at all though, and it has made my AFR quite a bit richer as well.  I haven't touched plug gap, and it's not snuffing out the spark at all.  Still revs clean up top.

MH racemaster Sport DOT slicks. 235/60-14   The events I race up north are on airports and they seldom use VHT or anything, and they don't use water in the water box for street cars, so, no burnouts to heat tires up.  I'm happy with anything below a 1.99 at these venues.

A real track, with a water box, I'm sure I'll get a high 1.8

Well, it works very nice.

I got a couple 1.94's with it and much easier to cut lights.

I got about 15 runs in and never broke anything, and have been driving it to work for the past 2 weeks, with the car in "park" per say, no ill effects.

Vids of 2 - step in action :

Fast Duramax, we both went 8.3

http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e71/ckarppi/?action=view&current=dura_cav.flv

You also hear it well in this one at 00:16

http://s290.photobucket.com/albums/ll254/rustyzj/North%20Shore%20Challenge%202008/?action=view&current=NSC08040.flv

Best run of the weekend for me was a 8.14 @ 97.