Usually they do a visual inspection to see if it is there and if it operates. Not necessarily how well it works.

Running without one may not make you fail the test, but it will increase the amount Nox in the exhaust. As long as the level does not exceed the allowable amount they will most likely suspect that your car just needs a tune up. Or something.

Good/Bad you decide.

You could use a block off plate under the EGR -- depends on how strict the emmisions are in your state.

But you would still have to fix that EGR tube.

This link helps explain how the EGR affects emissions http://www.misterfixit.com/egrvalve.htm

My EGR works, but I'm still glad I live in a state with no emissions testing! :D

This is what I've found so far:

AAA : 4-WAY MANUAL SEAT ADJUSTER

BA0 : ORNAMENTATION, EXTR, DOOR, NAMEPLATE

VD6 : BUMPER PROVISIONS, FRT, ALUMINUM

VG8 : VEHICLE, BUYER NOTICE LABEL

YG5 : IDENTIFICATION, SEO USAGE

the R6R option is harder to locate.

Test Car:
'93 Lumina 3.1 N/A (3 pintle digital EGR.)

Light accel = Sol 1 On (Open)
Slightly harder accel = Sol 2 On
Even Harder accel = Sol 3 On

Pressing the accel even harder can make all the sol on at one time.

When you get up to speed it seems like they are not really used till you slightly accelerate again.

During Deceleration they are not used (closed) from what I've seen so far.

The older vacuum EGR works in the same manner I imagine except that it only has one pintle, the harder you are on the throttle the more it is open.

Start with the obvious - tune up.

I agree with the checking/replacing the alternator.
On the older cars the alt used to put out 13.48v, on the newer ones I see the volt gauge at 13.8v. (Fluke digital multimeter)

Of course your output voltage will vary depending on the condition of the battery and the cables. It should be in the range listed above.

If the car doesn't idle fast enough that can cause the alt to not be able to put out enough juice to run the elect. system. (At idle- usually causes running rough, not necessarily a stall condition though.)
If your alternator has to put out more than 14v, the battery may be going bad. Have it checked, most parts stores will do it free.

---If the alt has to put out 15v the battery is most definately bad.

The x-over and chip will probably be next after you do those 2 things, which they cure the stalling issue associated with these cars.

Here is a site I found:

www.rpocodes.com which takes you to:
http://www.c2e.info/rpocodes/rpomain.html

I think I've seen various threads in this forum about RPO codes too. Not absoultely sure if any websites were mentioned though.

Later....

Thanks, that is a lot of info.
That's the kind of stuff I was looking for.
Maybe that info should be a sticky on this site as well,  :?:

Since I work for a NAPA store, I have the luxury of having cataloging with part pics. The parts are pictured by themselves, some are shot from different angles.
We also have a TGP carcus sitting around the back of the garage with the PMIII removed. That's how I came up with the idea for the adaptor plate.
Engine and trans is in an '88 Fiero, so I have use my imagination as to exactly how much room I have to work with on my TGP.

I am not absolutely sure about converting the PMIII to anything yet. But If I do, the proportioning to front/rear will be correct.

As for being able to stop from 100+, the Camaros do it. Only difference is they are RWD. So if I were to use a master cylinder from one of those
proportioning maybe still slightly incorrect, but close.

Gotta go to work now.
Later

I am still new to the W-body cars, but why hasn't anyone converted to the bolt on vacuum booster?
I hear all about cutting a firewall section out of a donor car and well .......you know the rest about the cam lock type.
Maybe instead, the existing four bolts could be used for an adapter/reinforcement plate.
Any one ever considered this?
I can't be the only one.

I know what you mean about OUR ASC/McLaren cars. There HAS to be SOMEBODY who knows.
(I was reading other posts about this lack of record keeping)

Maybe we could line up a big wig from each company (GM,ASC,McLaren)and shoot them in the foot till they cough up some information, or blood whichever gets us the information that we all would like to have.

I love my TGP even though collectively I have not drove it more than 1 mile since I bought it.
But I want to find out MORE about it LIKE:

What exactly did McLaren do? Gimme Specs and serials.
ASC? What all did they do?

Drive it like you stole it.
Later.

First of all let me say Hello to everyone.
Owner of a Red 90 TGP. Vin 301644. Problem with PMIII.
It is great to belong to a community of fellow car lovers. I have more to say but I'm here for the point.
A link to a website I found by doing a search on VIN numbers.
http://www.analogx.com/contents/vinview.htm

It really doesn't tell you anything you don't already know.


Tips to understanding your vehicles serial (VIN) number

They are as follows:

1st character- Identifies the country in which the vehicle was manufactured.
For example: U.S.A.(1or4), Canada(2), Mexico(3), Japan(J), Korea(K), England(S), Germany(W), Italy(Z)

2nd character- Identifies the manufacturer. For example; Audi(A),
BMW(B), Buick(4), Cadillac(6), Chevrolet(1), Chrysler(C), Dodge(B),
Ford(F), GM Canada(7), General Motors(G), Honda(H), Jaquar(A), Lincoln(L), Mercedes Benz(D), Mercury(M), Nissan(N), Oldsmobile(3), Pontiac(2or5), Plymouth(P), Saturn(8), Toyota(T), VW(V), Volvo(V).

3rd character- Identifies vehicle type or manufacturing division.

4th to 8th characters- Identifies vehicle features such as body style, engine type, model, series, etc.

9th character- Identifies VIN accuracy as check digit.
It Is determined by a complicated formula.
Each character is assigned a numerical value and then multiplied
by the value assigned to its position. These values
assigned to its position. These values are added and then
divided by 11. The remainder is the Check Digit. This character
can be numeric or the letter X.


10th character- Identifies the model year. For example: 1988(J), 1989(K), 1990(L), 1991(M), 1992(N), 1993(P), 1994(R), 1995(S), 1996(T),
1997(V), 1998(W), 1999(X), 2000(Y)------2001(1), 2002(2), 2003(3)

11th character- Identifies the assembly plant for the vehicle.

12th to 17th characters- Identifies the sequence of the vehicle for production
as it rolled of the manufacturers assembly line.
Quoted from http://www.autoinsurancetips.com/vin.htm

Here is another site that has a little more informaition.
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/TORONTO/VIN/VINcode.html

Later.