I was going to use these on a different engine (2.8 iron head) and to my surprise they didnt fit (studs about 1/8" different..)

nothing wrong with them. $75 shipped OBO

I need a set of TGP exhaust manifolds, thanks :)

it wouldnt let me upload all the files on here. you can get them on v6z24 (bottom of post):

http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/how-to-tune-code-59-t114450.html

I will be editing this several times, hang in there. heres some info for now :)

****DISCLAIMER*****
I will not be held responsible for any damage, at all, whatsoever that may result from you trying to tune your car.
Read the entire how-to, several times, before even attempting this.
*******************

First of all, I would like to thank a few people that helped me get to this point. slowolej, six_shooter, mars_man, everyone on the code59 forum, tunerpro author and everyone on their forum, moates.net for their great hardware.

Code 59 is basically a modified version of $58 that was used in the syclone/typhoon trucks. it has added features such as closed loop wb02 support, autotune, 3bar map, and lots of other stuff.

I have my car running good on code59 now. compared to the TGP $8F code, this is much better. the tune overall doesnt come insanely rich which is a nice starting point alone

the autotune feature helps you get a good base map, but understand it doesnt do Everything.

so here we go (finally right ..lol)

First of all, you need a 3 BAR map sensor, and get a good one. dont bother with the knockoff ones for a few bucks less. also get the correct 3bar map connector!

I'm using the MSD 3 BAR map sensor. I had a MSD 2 BAR map when using $8F and it worked great for me, so I figured why not. heres links to the hardware:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-2313/

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/map-gm-bar-map-sensor-uncrimped-connector-p-162.html?utm_campaign=export_feed&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=googlebase&m1track=googlebase&language=en&osCsid=589da22f919e4c13c9a7cd79462d4c9f#googlebase

ok so once you the parts you want to solder & heatshrink the connector on. dont use crimp connectors or any other crap, do it right!

do one wire at a time, to the same position it was on the stock harness

thats all you need to do wiring wise for our cars. you can run your WB02 0-5V output to the ECM too. I'll explain that in a later edit (or just go onto the code59 forum its on there)

I would go ahead and make sure your ostrich has the latest firmware found here:

http://www.moates.net/documentation.php?documentation_id=22

If you want to use autotune, I recommend using Tunerpro RT v4.14. the reason for this is, V5 doesnt export the datalog in a way you can easily paste it to autotune. they made some changes so the columns dont match anymore. if there becomes a fix for this I will post it

http://www.tunerpro.net/download/SetupTunerProRT_v414.exe

code 59 autotune download:

http://www.code59.org/index.php?option=com_docman&task=doc_download&gid=25&Itemid=35

The bin I have attached is for 39# injectors and a pre-00 FPR, VSS is the 91-94 Jbody settings. depending on your injector size you will need to adjust the " Base Pulse Constant -vs- Desired EGR (F28) " at 0% (EGR off)



the lower the number, the more you lean it out the overall tune. higher the number richens the overall tune

some people prefer tuning in open loop from the get-go, I prefer a slightly different method. I like having closed loop enabled at first.

to enable closed loop open the " Tempature for Closed Loop Enable (KCLTC) " table. have it set to around 75 or whatever temp your car is once warmed up



save that settings and upload the bin to the ostrich

then what I do is drive around at part throttle and watch the BLM. The BLM is an indicator of how rich/lean the overall tune is. you dont want to floor it when trying to get a BLM reading. the NBO2 sensor is only accurate around stoich. so as long as your not wailing on the throttle you should get good BLM feedback.

If the BLM is over 128 the overall tune is lean, so I would raise the Base Pulse Constant -vs- Desired EGR (F28) until the part throttle BLM is closer to 128

remember, your BLM is NOT going to be 128 ALL THE TIME. so dont worry, just get it as close as you can.

ok now that you have a good BLM, go ahead and disable closed loop. you do this by moving the slider all the way to the right:



save that setting and upload the bin to the ostrich

drive around again and record a datalog. you dont want to boost at all. just drive around gently varying the RPM. try and get some uphill driving in too so your VE table gets dialed in.

stop recording the datalog and export it to a CSV file. then open the autotune spreadsheet

in tunerpro, open the " Base VE -vs- RPM & MAP 3 BAR (EXTENDED, Vaccum - 30 PSI) (F29x) " table:



**NOW THIS IS IMPORTANT** look at the RPM on the side. make sure 6400 RPM is on the top. if your using tunerpro v4.xx it should be. but if your using V5 they reversed it

if 6400RPM is on the bottom, you have to change this first! go into tools, preferences. then check the box that says reverse rows.

**you should only need to do this in TP V5**

**you should only need to do this in TP V5**

the reason you need to do this is the autotune spreadsheet has 6400 rpm on the top. so if yours has 6400 at the bottom when you copy & paste it, bad things would happen!

ok so with 6400RPM on the top copy the entire " Base VE -vs- RPM & MAP 3 BAR (EXTENDED, Vaccum - 30 PSI) (F29x) " table

Open the autotune spreadsheet. paste the VE table into here:



now go back to tunerpro, copy the entire " AFR -vs- RPM & MAP WBO2 Fueling 3 BAR (F29_AFR) " table

paste that table into autotune here:



open up your CSV (datalog) and goto edit, select all. then copy the table. go back into autotune, click the "raw data" tab at the bottom. paste the datalog

now you have just copied your current VE settings, your desired AFR, and datalog information into autotune. click back on the "VE information" tab at the bottom

you may experience a delay at this point. whats happening is the new Suggested VE table is being calculated. should take just a few seconds. when its done look for this table:



copy that entire suggested VE table and go back into tunerpro. go back to the F29x table and paste your new desired VE table in there

**Now STOP. at this point the VE table will not save the new calculated cells. the reason for this is, tunerpro can only save in .39 increments. your calculated VE table is not in this range. but its easy to fix

what you need to do is click in one of the red cells (the red ones are the ones that changed):



make a quick mental note of what the number is, and press either the + or - key. what that will do is make the number tunerpro acceptable so it will save. sometimes when you press + or - it will go off by 3.xx or so. so just keep going up/down until its closest to what it was. then repeat this process for the remaining cells in red.

ok great. now you can save the table and upload the new settings to the ostrich

drive around again still no boost and repeat the process. I would do this at least 3 times, or until you feel the car is running good

when your ready for boost, I would suggest turning your boost down the lowest you can to start with. I also recommend tuning with fresh premium gas, and on a cool morning/night. this will help prevent detonation compared to not doing so

The " Base Boost Multiplier -vs- Map 3 Bar (EXTENDED) (F77x) " table is where you make big adjustments to fueling under boost. this combined with the F29_AFR table (above 100kpa) will help dial in your boost fueling



Calibrating the VSS
-----------------------
The VSS settings in the bin attached are for a 91-94 Jbody VSS. for a pre-91 VSS change the road speed constant to 4000.43



then goto the "---== VSS - Instrument Panel Settings ==---" and uncheck all 3 flags:

I think this was posted already.. cant seem to find it

friend of mine is installing TGP parts on his 2.8. he would like a bigger turbo than the stock T25.

What will fit the TGP crossover and DP flanges?

thanks

bump

Turbosmart boost controller $30 shipped



K&N air filter. 2.75" inlet, 8.5" long $30

sweet I cant wait to try it  :icon_mrgreen:

Quote from: flybynite on December 16, 2009, 09:22:49 AM
The xdf on 60 has it.  IAC Throttle Follower Decay Rate VS MPH (not in park or neutral).  

k, found it. mine is showing 16 steps at 0mph. thats too low lol. thanks alot, I'll report the results when the car isnt frozen :)

edit: wait its showing msec is that right??

Quote from: flybynite on December 15, 2009, 05:55:55 AM
Have you tried messing with the IAC vs MPH table. I have tuned up to 42lb injectors with all sorts of issues. In the end everything worked out, it just took some time...

havent tried that, I dont see it in my XDF? could you send yours

Quote from: TGed on December 14, 2009, 07:41:02 PM
It happened with 28's, and 36's.  since that is all that I tried so far.  The motor is long gone and a new build is under the knife for next year.  Going with 8f again and 42's .... :eek:  

My idle wouldn't fluctuate, it would idle perfect and just randomly stall when coming to a stop or while costing at low speeds (20 or under) .

last car I tried tuning w/ 42s on 8F was a nightmare. but the car had some issues so im not blaming 8F 100%

let me know how your tune goes. I might attempt it again when that car is in better shape. it had some vac leak issues and maybe even exhaust leaks. my car took forever to get a good idle with 39#s and thats with it in good shape lol

Quote from: flybynite on December 14, 2009, 07:35:21 PM
Have you tried raising the idle set screw? This will allow the iac to have minimal steps and it is less likely to fluctuate..  Just a guess tho...

thats what I did when I had megasquirt on the car and it seemed to work. well I kinda had to do it that way since there was no idle control... but I have a 65mm TB and the set screw doesnt stay locked so that wont fix it. It seems the problem is in the tune since it relearns the idle eventually. so I would rather fix it that way

Quote from: TGed on December 14, 2009, 07:20:46 PM
Mine randomly would stall too, and mine is an automatic.  I never could figure it out and neither could the second party tuner.  Ran great and afr/tune was great!

what size injectors?

Quote from: flybynite on December 14, 2009, 06:52:57 PM
What problem are you trying to cure?

whenever I disconnect the battery it takes way too long to relearn the idle. it stalls for days then its fine

heres what I've found. looks like the XDF settings were wrong for this. I was reading a tuning guide for $DF when I first came across this setting. it shows in IAC steps for that code mask.

so I tried putting the $DF XDF settings into $8F and came up with this:



so basically if thats right it means the ECM is expecting 12 IAC steps for idle. anything more/less the ECM would need to relearn and store in its memory

since my car is 5spd (along with other mods), my IAC steps are much higher.

is there anyone on here with a stock TGP that could verify their IAC steps at idle? that would be a great help in determining if my XDF fix is right

once winter is over I will be able to try this out. I'm sick of idle relearn taking forever when I disconnect the battery. I'm pretty sure this will fix it