any progress?
Tim

Just read the bad news over on the dodge site Josh and his brother would go to so I came here to find out more. He was a good guy. I PMed him a bit over there about Jimmys TGP and when I signed up here (differant user name then on the dodge site) he PMed me within a few days asking about my name here and he wanted to know if his guess at it was correct. He was.
Tim

I don't know if they will let you look in the for sale section of this site without being registered but there are a few omni/glh/glh-t/glh-s for sale. I was just looking at the pictures of a convertible Lebaron near me.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f30/
Tim

Is the chip your running have the fan scedule adjusted for the 180 stat? You could also rewire that second fan to come on with the main fan. I found it funny the way GM wired the 2 fans. Or if you don't want to reprogram a chip you could control the fan outside of the computer. Advance auto sells a kit to wire up an electric fan and you can adjust it turn on point. About 50 bucks. or I found a web site a while ago that offered a piece of hose with an set point sensor in it and you cut it into the lower hose to turn on a relay http://www.alumrad.com/index.html look under the electric fan section. If you live up north I wouldn't go with a 160 might have heat problems if you drive it in the winter. Plus if you don't change the fan scedule the fan still won't come on until the same temp as now.
Tim

Quote from: cobracmdr on July 29, 2008, 05:32:28 AM
Sorry but you southern boys underestimate the salt factor in the Northeast.  Replace it with that pos steel line and plan on doing it every year and a half.  Where it is located it gets splashed with all the shit coming off the wheel going through snow and shit.  That and the line is made out of cheep steel with crappy paint and a crappy welded bracket.  They almost always fail at the bracket weld.  The heater hose fix lasts many many years like once I fixed it with the heater hose I never had another problem.

It is not that it is that hard to replace the steel line, it is just stupid to replace it with something that will do the exact same thing next year.

Ken

I may live in Florida but ask the guys I work with they will tell you how much of a yankee I still am. I know all about salt I lived up there for 40 years. Probably more years them some here have been alive. If it is rotting away so fast coat the outside of it better then GM did before installing it. I would use a good undercoating. The inside should not rot out if you run coolant. The steel was put in these lines for road hazzards a rubber hose can't handle. When I look at buying a car seeing things like rubber hose where a steel line should be and other changes like that makes me think of Mickey Mouse and the more I see the more I back off of that car. Also statements like I only plan on keep it for 2 years makes me think the car is just getting patched until its for sale instead of being kept in good shape. The for sale thread will also say how great the car has been kept instead of it just being patched up since owned. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.
Tim

That steel line is not that hard to replace when we had Jimmys engine out we bumped it with the engine while putting the engine back in so we ended up replacing it with the engine back in there. Its not really that hard. Plus it took 18 years to rust out your new heater hose won't last that long.
Tim

Quote from: cobracmdr on July 28, 2008, 05:23:05 AM
Just move to upstate NY, it was 55 this morning ;)  Winters are 0 F that is plenty of cooling for these cars ;)

It is a very short season of 55 degree days here. We get 90+ days from April until October. Heat is our biggest problem. My little 2.2 loves Januaray and some of Feburary but the rest of the year too much heat. I think I'll add the alcohol system to my 2.2 before I would do a big front mount intercooler. I think the cooling effect of the alcohol may be enough that I won't put in the front mount.
Tim

If I understand correctly what the dodge guys are doing for using alcohol for just cooling. They use their wide band to see if its right. We have adjustable fuel pressure regulators available for our cars. I have been looking for one that fits a TGP. They drop their fuel pressure a bit and make sure the O2 and computer correct things out of boost. In boost the car runs a set program by just what the map sensor reading is. Since the fuel pressure is down the fuelling is down. They add the alcohol to bring the fueling back up without burning a new chip. The wide band helps you figure out how much alcohol to spray. The cooling helps with knock. heat and compression cause the knock the boost adds cylinder pressure that is why we run premium fuel. If done right alcohol should allow you to run higher boost without running higher octane maybe even allow you to run lower octane. We can get custom chips pretty easy for our cars. some have had chips made to use the alcohol under boost and are running 87 octane with a much higher boost then they would be able to run without alcohol.
Tim

Quote from: TGed on July 20, 2008, 02:25:50 AM
One night while out I "met" up with a B18/manual trans teggy.  He had the usual CAI, lowered, filled/solid mounts...  At that time I was near stock (all I had was a Cheap CAI) and the little t25 was huffing oil.  Not surprised I got my ass handed to me.
Time goes on then I happen to see the same car out at the same spot with added mods (IIRC header, ported head, tune, and weight reduction etc etc) . 
I upgraded the turbo (lets say it's a lot larger than the t25  ;) ) , installed a ffp UDP, solid mounts, 3" exhaust no mufflers, tune, CAI, bigger IC, 1.6 rockers and a rebuilt trans. 
We were even from a dig, then as soon as it spooled I was gone leaving the poor kid by 5-7 car lengths.  I am sorta bias for the turbo lag that I have.  It helps me gain traction with the stock gen 2 power from a stop then about 10' out of the hole the turbo starts to spool.  At that time the tires break loose roasting rest of 1st,  spinning second and then sometimes chirp or spinning 3rd.  With DR's or slicks that dont happen, but with these cheap tires they just don't grip. 
Of course this is just a "story" that everyone knows comes from Mexico.   :icon_wink:

What turbo do you have in it? I want to get Jimmy into a bigger turbo then the T25 or T28. I think he would like a little lag I just don't have him sold. He has been in my 2.2 with a T3 and he seems to like it but with a 4 cylinder 2.2 the turbo doesn't come into 2500 but when it does it spools good. I keep telling him with the 3.1 it should spool lower
Tim

The dodge guys are using meth to lower charge temps. some use it for adding fuel when they get their  boost above 25 psi some at lower boost use it to just cool the charge. some are even running 87 octane with the meth and don't have knock. This is what I want to do with Jimmy's TGP when we put on the T3. Raise boost to 15 and shoot meth. Having a wide band installed is also a good idea. I don't think you need to register to read this section of the dodge forum I go to but check out some of the meth threads some have pictures of their kits installed http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f59/
Tim

the switch is adjustable. You just need to loosen it shift it and lock it down much easier then replacement. It is tight down in there but it can be adjusted.
Tim

we had to do this to Jimmys I believe there is a metal clip on the back side (firewall side) of the switch. Use a paper clip or something to pull it away from the switch and the internals of the switch will rachet into proper adjustment then just release the paper clip. If you have small hands you might be able to reach it. If it doesn't adjust or keeps doing it again replace the switch.
Tim

sure ain't today. It was a chart for a 12 volt circuit. You take the amps measure the run of the wire in feet and it tells you the gauge of wire to run. Use a 6 gauge wire for up to 7 feet or use a 4 gauge wire from 7 to 12 feet. I ran a few chevys right from the alternator along the backside of the engine to the master cylinder area and down to the battery stud next to the battery. I guess the turbo may make you run it more toward the firewall and down the inner fender. Napa had the cable I needed with the right ends on it to fit both the alternator and stud.
Tim

here you go third chart down http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm
The factory runs it from the alternator to the starter then on to the battery.(on Lumnas at least I would guess a TGP is the same) I would just add a cable from the alternator to the stud next to the battery. I have actually found some issues with the lenght of wire GM used on some of these cars and added a cable run like I said just to help the charging system keep the battery up.
Tim

If your going to replace the pump here is the pump to use but be carefull fake ones are out there http://www.tgpforums.com/index.php?topic=3222.0 It won't solve your sender issue since its only the pump.
Tim