Both the TGP's I've owned came to me with bad crossovers, one was original and totally blown wide open, the other someone tried to weld cracks and bits on it. Cars never ran right without them sealed right. I'd at least strongly consider getting a rebuilt one, just for long term reliability. I did it years back now but Its just one less problem to deal with, totally worth it.

I think I'm mostly concerned with how good it looks underhood, I've been looking around but haven't found something I totally like yet, but I seem to see a lot of referrals for this DEI kit.

Anyone have pictures of that DEI blanket installed? If not how did you work around the o2 sensor? I'm getting tired of melting things under my hood.

I don't even recall where I heard it to be honest. I wish I knew more of what you and Rob are talking about, but at some point soon I'll be moving to the HotTune chip again.

If it makes you feel any better mine came in a $700 TGP  :laugh: I do remember thinking it insane that he had a $400 price tag on that chip. Which IIRC has a SST memcal soldered on it.

I remember he (Kenny) had a bit of falling out with the community at large and ended up getting completely out of it.

I know a few of the chips I sent you were (to best of my knowledge) OG TG160 chips. I think those were unique in that they were UV erased stock eproms updated with his tune.

and the one I most recently sent you is that Kenny Hottune chip(i think???). (have to reply back to your pm on w-body yet) But, and perhaps Adam can verify, that he was a lot of the brains behind those chips.

Edit: searched the guy I bought the car off of's posts, the chip I sent you lately, Rob is indeed a Hottune chip

Check the basics, car needs air, fuel, spark to run do you have all 3?

Code 42 seems to point to Electronic spark control, chances are its been trying to tell you something. If I were to guess I'd check for spark and replace the ignition control module if no spark.

turned out one of my relays was bad, got a spare module I had and retouched the solder joints, and it worked again, then found some broken wiring between the console lid and console, repaired that and everything finally works again! Thanks for the motivation to fix it!

Did this fix the intermittent seats not doing any of the pneumatic functions problem? If so it sounds like I need to do that!

I would love to get these things out of my way, overall very decent condition considering they are 23 years old.
Shipping would be $Money I'm sure. Local pickup would be preferred, I can possibly meet up if it means getting the things gone. Located near Pittsburgh, PA
Asking $120 OBO, seriously make me an offer! Or offer to trade me things.

Buying your busted/untrusted/questionable PMIII relays. Let me know how much you'd like and how many! Thanks!

Getting in late on this, but. This is the one I used on my TGP earlier this year seems to work good so far. I BELIEVE it is the same one as Prior used to use.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACCUMULATOR-BALL-BY-HYDAC-FORD-PONTIAC-LINCOLN-MERCURY-/370721785386?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5650bd862a&vxp=mtr

There are codes that can indicate a failed relay, but if the motor is cycling on and off and not staying stuck one way or the other I'd venture to say you are ok as far as the relay goes.

my old Accumulator would act in a similar way, But I also was getting some codes for it. I have a aftermarket HYDAC accumulator now, and it runs about every 3rd press.

I might have a spare prop valve, I'll have to look.

as for the cluster..... good luck. they are with little exception all broken like that now. PM RobertSaar on w-body he has been re calibrating these for a few people

Not fallen through yet. I've just been busy this past summer with other projects. hopefully after the new year I can get the ball rolling on this.

you guys talking x2 as in 2 gauges or 2 pillars?