Hey, all. I have'nt been 'round for a while, I've just been too busy with too many other projects. So, one of them has to go! I just listed my TGP on ebay, please see the listing for all the details, and if interested I've posted my phone # there also. 24 pictures, very extensive description of what is needed to finish my project, what I've done to the car so far, so take a look. Thanks all for all the support in the past, I hope someone can pick up where I had to leave off and enjoy another copy of this wonderful car.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4617353831&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT

:-)

My recollection is that the adaptors and fuel line for one line ran about $28 and the dealer wanted ~$35 for a single n/a (non-turbo) line.

Cheaper and better (except the extra long line over the shock tower, but beat the heat problem).

Boing, the garage is full and something has to go!
I know, it's not a TGP, but still a classic muscle car!
1986 IROC Z/28
the following as of ~5000 miles ago
titled as a 5.0 but now 5.7
crane compu-cam
crane gold 1.6 roller lifters
edelbrock exhaust
30# injectors
adj. fuel regulator
hd oil pump (55# at idle w/ syntec)
throttle body airfoil
custom chip by superchips
shift kit by B&M
megashifter by B&M
2400 stall converter
new battery
new brakes, shocks, bushings, tires
T-tops don't leak or squeak
Bose ERS factory sound
power adj. drivers seat
never wrecked
Basically, this is a very mechanically sound car. I have been driving it daily for a couple years (off and on with others in the garage) and even at 10deg below zero it starts great! Interior shows it's age, but is not trashed. Has a few dings here and there, but what car does'nt at 17 years old!
email me for more info: auto4sale@sbcglobal.net

I had the same problem!

I found a local hydraulic line shop that removed the crimp fittings off the old line, and placed new compression adapters on the old metal ends. Then, they made a line that had the same type connector as the adaptor and crimped new line to the fittings, attached them to the adaptors, and it worked. Bad thing, though, the adaptor and new crimp fitting is fairly long, which required a very graceful bend as it could not turn the corner tight enough to route the same as the original, so I added a few inches to the length and brought the line up over the shock tower and toward the front of the car and then over to the fuel rail.

I did not like the n/a fuel line idea, too much risk of fire from the heat of the turbo hardening and cracking the line so I chose this route to be safe, especially since my college daughter is the daily driver of the TGP now.

I have a picture if Waskie will post it somewhere.

AKM is about the best source for cables I have seen:

http://www.mindspring.com/~amattei/akmelect.htm

Sears sells a set of stripped head bolt removers that are a fluted socket design, which work quite well. They sell in a base kit and an add-on kit, so both kits together will cover just about any situation. They work really well, might give them a try.

This actually sounds like a ground problem where there is a missing ground strap and some of the circuits are getting thier ground from others, causing things to stay active!

I had this symptom in mine when I first got it, before I started digging into all it's problems. I did not address it first, as I had other problems bigger that needed my attention. When I got done with the brake problems, new PMIII, new brake switch, new calipers on 4 corners, new rotors on 4 corners, new pads, new line for one that leaked, rebuilt parking brake pedal assembly, and restore the cables to parking brakes (all dirty and binding), and got the thing to run and drive, this problem had dissapeared so I really believe that the handling problem was caused by a stuck caliper since I had one rear rotor that was significantly more worn and grooved than the other.
I have also seen this type of thing on my Z/28, and tracked it to a loose bushing on the track-bar, which caused the whole rear end to shift sideways under braking load. When I would come to a traffic light and brake fairly hard, it would jump sideways when I first touched the brake, and then stop straight as an arrow, I chased brakes for 3 months, then someone mentioned bushings and so I checked and found about an 1/8" play so tightend up the track bar bolts and it went away. I mention this as you really need to think a little outside the box on some of the stange problems, they are not allways obvious, especially on a car as complicated as the TGP.
THe other suggestions are on target that the other guys are giving, I'm just trying to expand the possible things to check. Also, the front strut mounts (I have not done a W body so I don't know for sure) on a lot of cars have bearings that can go bad, they only show up under unloading of the suspension and can change allignment which can cause weird steering effects also, so check there!
I have also seen where a dragging brake will cause this, when you upset the downforce on the lighter rear end and have a dragging brake, there can be some weird steering effects. Especially with the way the TGP parking brakes are designed, they can cause a dragging if not installed correctly or someone has monkeyed with the adjuster arm or you plain out just have a cobbed up piston!

The check is to lift all four corners, make sure you have nearly the same drag or lack of drag to spin the tires side to side, front will be harder since you have the tranny to rotate (do this in neutral) also, so compare side to side.

The backs should have virtually no drag and the fronts should have very little drag, basically the resistance of the tranny and maybe a little pad drag is all you should feel.

Thanks, I had forgotten about that stupind item.

or

you could reprogram the antillocks as I imagine the cars with different sizes have done!

Tires the same size all around is a mis-nomer, they only need to be the same on each axle!
Look at the super-cars, they have different sizes front/rear.

Lowering and then a compromise in tire width doesn't achieve anything in my opinion, because you need the width up front in the twisteez, I would go back to a little suspension height and raise the front a little. If it really worked to lower it, ASC/McLaren would have done that as part of the package.

The 245's are great for this car, it has almost as much footprint as my 'Vette, 225's would be a dissapointment in my opinion.

Looks are one thing, but performance is another, so with what you've done so far, keep after the performance and keep the looks as stock as possible and KILL the buzzbomb imports with your tricked out sleeper!

12456148 is 7.80 per bar X 2 = 15.60 + 7.95 shipping = 23.55 from GMPartsDircet.com

There is a known problem w/ the eprom tuning of the tgp that causes stall at low speed when stopping. The best cure is to re-chip the computer, the JeffM chips are great at fixing this problem. If you want more go, the top gun is the way to go, but make sure you have a good sound base to start with that has no other problems other than the driveability issue above. This includes the Xover pipe, also

If you just want to fix the drivability issues, the base chip will do that, it is a definate if nothing else, I myself can't put up with a car that is unpredictable, and therefore I chipped mine and am totally satisifed with the drivability now.

http://www.turbograndprix.com/driveability_and_performance_chip.htm

I finally found  :D the problem of overboost I have been chasing for months!

My find is that there is a hairline crack in the line from the turbo to the ecm-turbo-control-solenoid which was bleeding about (in my estimation) 7 to 8 #'s of pressure from the wastegate actuator, thereby allowing for early overboost.

Now the interesting  :? part, in my troubleshooting I made sure I had very firm connections to the solenoid, turbo, and wastegate actuator, but when I bypassed the solenoid to go to minimum boost (should have been < 5 #'s) I had nearly a full gauge of boost at only mid throttle. My bypass was at the solenoid end of the lines, cause the lines appeared good when I reworked the turbo and the connections were firm cause I rechecked them a couple times.

Any way, as a trigger from all your help, one of the chaps with a similar problem found a leaking connection to the turbo or actuator (cracked from heat) so I thought, I'm going to eliminate all doubts and determine if it is the actuator or what so I put a brand new hose on the turbo to actuator, less than a foot long, and what did I get? You guessed it! About 33% of a gauge of boost at any throttle and a very happy engine.  :fadein:

I did not have enough time to re-plumb the line with new hard line, but will get to it tomorrow, daughter needed the car before I had enough time to finish.

Any way, thanks to all of those who have tried to offer suggestions and hep, it was all appreciated. Now for getting on with the rest of the project, making this the tire smokin' spoolin' and crusin' machine it really can be!

It now can wear it's name proudly, cause 'Spanky' will be spankin' those fart-can-mobiles in style! :!:

Thanks, Josh, I think you hit the head on the nail!

First diagram looks like the one I need.

ChrisA, I bypassed the air line around the solenoid, at the solenoid. Have not had time to re-plumb it, I'm goning to try a fresh line directly from the turbo to the wastegate w/ some small spring clamps to be sure. I'll let you know the results.

While I wait, in anticipation of need one, any one have a known good wastegate. Suspect that is what I'm going to find is the problem, taking 7-8 pounds instead of the normal 4-4&12 pounds I belive to be spec.

PM me if you know where a good one is. Thanks.