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Messages - Mr. Mod Man

#1
Problems & Solutions / MY PMIII
October 11, 2003, 08:25:16 PM
Dont mess with accumulators and other parts. Just get the whole thing at once, It is not hard to replace it, I did it in my friends car port
#2
Problems & Solutions / MY PMIII
October 11, 2003, 08:22:19 PM
Get the Powermaster III  from Prior. It is a rip off at $775 (including core) but it is the one thing you do not want to put off because you need good brakes for this heavy car and it is cheaper than rear ending some one!

My dash no longer looks like a christmas tree(I put it off for the longest time too, so dont feel bad) my wallet was injured, but at least I wasnt. :lol:
#3
Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes / Brake Light stuck on
October 11, 2003, 07:15:17 PM
Thanks, I fixed it. It was just a broken switch. $15
#4
Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes / Brake Light stuck on
September 04, 2003, 03:58:22 PM
I just replaced the Powermaster III pump and brakes work good but the light still flashes sometimes on the dash and the brake lights are stuck on but if you pull the brake petal out it clicks and turns off.  Do I need a new switch or is something out of adjustment?

I know I have seen a thread on this problem but I cant find it right now.
#5
Performance / could it be the turbo?
September 04, 2003, 03:37:34 PM
thanks for the help. It must be the turbo because I already did the oil return line.
I will replace it after my wallet heals from having to buy a brake pump (powermaster III   $770 prior reman. including shipping) .
#6
Performance / BOV from 98 eclipse?
August 20, 2003, 04:20:20 PM
Got one for free, has any one installed this style? I have not yet seen any good detailed pictures of  an install.  Anyone know where to look ?
#7
Performance / could it be the turbo?
August 20, 2003, 04:12:44 PM
I was wondering if it could be my turbo causing my car to blow smoke out the exhaust. Because it has 150,000 miles on it and it only smokes when I take exits off the freeway to the right and when it sits at an idle for more than 30 seconds.
     Some diesel mechanic told me my turbo is gone and it is blowing oil in to the combustion chambers.
      Is this possible? Because it does not smoke all the time, just once in a while when I veer off to the right(and at idle).
      If it is the oil seals can it be rebuilt ? What should I do?
#8
Performance / cold air intake
May 25, 2003, 05:30:23 PM
:?:
#9
Performance / BETCHUDONTHAVIT-YET
April 27, 2003, 10:19:33 PM
I'll try to find out the brand name. They were like $65 for the front, about twice as much as severe duty pads. I will find out what store we got them from too, not all places have them yet. It was through my friend's shop so I think they might be more than that though.
#10
What makes the nice one "nice"? And How fast is the "track only" one going to be? Are you going to chip it and get a hybrid turbo and port and polish the heads and keep it light?

If I had two TGPs that would be what I would do. But I only have one so it is super heavy with it's stereo and fully loaded with A/C.

It would be super cool if they were both identical externally :twisted:
#11
Performance / BETCHUDONTHAVIT-YET
April 27, 2003, 09:39:52 PM
Good news for all owners of heavy supercars with small brake rotors!

there is a new ceramic laced brake pad available at your local parts store, and I am sporting the first set that I know of. So far they are quiet and are breaking in well.  Once the break-in stage is complete, we will see how long it takes to grate them off with my Powerstop x-drilled rotors.
#12
Performance / Aftermarket heat wrapping
April 26, 2003, 08:13:33 PM
Leave it naked for everyone to see!  :twisted: You dont even need turbo wrap.  I just used heat shielding on everything around the turbo. The powermaster III already has that aluminum shield. You can get another one like it in a wrecking yard off an old olds quad 442 header or make one out of stainless sheetmetal and place it on the side of the turbo to shield 90% of the things you need to shield(battery, vacuum lines, plastic parts).  Then Use orange silicone tubing with fiberglass lining(same stuff used on ignition wires near a header) for the fuel lines( disconnect fuel lines and take off the hold down clamp, slide on the tubing all the way up and over the turbo  on the delivery and return line). Then cut some tubing open (lengthwise) and zip tie a piece on thr underside of the intake pipe and make it too long so it has a flap that goes all the way under the throttle body shielding it from heat. My theory is it is never good to hold in heat if you want your motor oil (not to mention turbo) to not burn up.
#13
Performance / Going with a colder spark plug?
April 26, 2003, 06:59:12 PM
actually Ngk Iridiums are pre gapped and it is not recommended that you change the gap either (thats what it says on the box) Thats not to say you don't check the gap.
#14
Performance / Going with a colder spark plug?
April 02, 2003, 02:37:32 PM
What is the gap?


NGK Iridiums?
#15
Performance / good deal on K&N!
April 02, 2003, 02:32:42 PM
Dude , just go down to the local parts store and get one of those APC or API or whatever it is breathers. Don't pay more than $10. They got red , blue , yellow, black.