...do a 5-Speed Swap?

90TGP · August 12, 2002, 04:08:27 AM

Want to do it to my car when you're done!? :)

TGPilot · August 12, 2002, 07:23:01 AM

Sure....$2000 and you supply all the parts. 8)

TGPilot · August 12, 2002, 09:12:54 PM

OK kids... I did a dry fit of the shift linkage and the turbo manifold and guess what???? It looks like it will clear fine. The Downpipe is just barely in contact with the stud that mounts the linkage to the tranny, but I have a feeling that when the downpipe is hooked to the tail-pipe it will hold it up.

I am going to have to get different short shafts for the drive line, but it looks like the donor cars shafts are the ones. Of course the donor cars CV joints are cooked :cry:

I cut the holes tonight for the shift linkage and the slave cylinder. Ohhhh what fun that was!! :roll:

The Turbo used the Auto Tranny's cradle to support the back of the turbo and I am fabricating two support rods with 3/8" rolled stainless tube.

What a project... 8)

ps...make sure you buy the tranny input shaft pilot bearing before you put everything together...don't be a dip-shit like me tonight! I have to pick one up tomorrow now.

Chris A · August 13, 2002, 10:02:54 PM

Quote from: TGPilot
What a project... 8)

ps...make sure you buy the tranny input shaft pilot bearing before you put everything together...don't be a dip-shit like me tonight! I have to pick one up tomorrow now.

Pilot bearing? Are you sure? the 282 shouldn't use one, the way the shaft is supported internally it doesn't need the extra support of a pilot bearing. But, ya never know i could be wrong.

chris

TGPilot · August 14, 2002, 06:52:37 AM

Hey Chris...

I have never seen a manual tranny that didn't take a pilot bearing or bushing of some sort. I called Pontiac, who then called GM who wound up confirming that there is no bearing on the crank end of the input shaft. I would have looked at the old motor, but I already sold that last week. Oh well, live and learn :?

Thanks though for pointing that out... 8)

TGPilot · August 19, 2002, 08:41:55 AM

It's IN!!!! :spin: The tranny that is. Got it in and got it running. Found a pretty good oil leak that I caused in between the oil pressure sending unit housing and the oil filter mount. Had to remove this assembly to do the front motor mount and the gasket was dried up....should have known better :oops: I should have a write up here soon. I would like to actually enjoy the fruits of my labor before I do though... 8)

I don't recommend this to anyone who isn't a qualified mechanic! When I find one I'll let you know... :drinking:

GPChief · August 19, 2002, 05:49:01 PM

Wheres the love - you dont need to leave every time I show up to help. :D

TGPilot · August 20, 2002, 07:02:00 AM

I am sure you were more relieved than disappointed that I was on parts runs everytime you and your STE showed up!!! :lol: :lol: I still have some minor tinkering to do...but for the most part she goes forward! :shock:

waskie · August 20, 2002, 07:43:35 AM

How about reverse? :shock:

twinturbosedan · August 22, 2002, 11:14:38 PM

Quote from: TGPilot
I don't recommend this to anyone who isn't a qualified mechanic! When I find one I'll let you know... :drinking:

yeah i had no idea what i was getting into before i did mine. i finished the swap about a month and a half ago and everything is great now. i also had to do it twice in a row because the 3.1 that i bought with the getrag ended up knocking really bad around 300 miles later....so i put the original engine back in with the Getrag. the worst part of the swap i thought was mounting the brake pedal. i decided that i didn't want to cut the original pedal. and cutting the hole for the clutch master was kind of a bitch because i left the brake booster in. a Dremel with a flexshaft worked great for that tho. the most tedious were all the gaskets, i ended up doing plenum, tb, valve cover, timing cover, water pump, rear main seal, oil pan, and oil drive o-ring seal. but now that i've done it twice, i think i could do a 5-speed conversion no problem now. the only thing i haven't done is the clutch starter switch and the new engine wiring harness doesn't match my old A/C compressor. btw did you use your cars original engine wiring harness? i used the one that came with my 3.1/Getrag, everything from the firewall out was replaced. i didn't have to do anything with the gear selector switch. i'm sure the shift light should work but i don't think there is a bulb in there. i don't plan on puttin' one in either heh heh. let us know how your car does after you break the clutch in.....
joshua

TGPilot · August 23, 2002, 06:58:22 AM

I am using the original TGP wiring harness. I need to wire the P/Neutral switch because I think it is pissing off the ECM that it sees the car in Park and it then sees speed registering and other inputs...boost, throttle, etc. I get a Service Engine Soon light everytime I come to a stop for the first time after starting it. I am going to wire it right this weekend to include the clutch switch. She hauls ass though! The motor spins up faster too without having that lead weight called a torque converter hooked to it... 8)

twinturbosedan · August 23, 2002, 04:23:58 PM

Quote from: TGPilotShe hauls ass though! The motor spins up faster too without having that lead weight called a torque converter hooked to it... 8)

that's awesome :) i remeber i could hardly even spin the tires back when my car was automatic....but now.....whoa...i can spin MAD tires in 1st gear and even barks them good going into second. there was a thread about spinning tires on here a while ago and i was surprised to see that alot of TGP's couldn't really do it? i'm betting your 5-speed TGP would produce some nice white clouds....oh wait don't do that i don't have $350 to send you for a new clutch :) i'd love to hear what your 1/4 times are..
joshua

TGPilot · August 23, 2002, 06:00:41 PM

I am going to break the clutch in the rest of the way this week and take her to the track next weekend for some runs...we shall see what she does... 8)

visusens · September 17, 2002, 05:52:11 PM

Well now that I have decided to keep my TGP. I have started taking it apart to start he swap. This might be a start of a documented post of all if my screw ups. I have never worked on a front wheel drive set up before.
I am going to approach it in an elementary fashion. I have removed the brake assemblys. I am sizing up the axels to remove them both. I see that there are four bolts behind the rotor set up I guess I have to remove
them. My question is do I have to remove that monster nut that is in the center of the shaft on the outside to get the shaft out. I need to know before I go spend the money to get a socket that fits. Any help at all is appreciated, Thanks Guys

twinturbosedan · September 18, 2002, 03:55:26 AM

no you don't have to remove the axle nut just to get the shafts out. the axle/hub assembly can come straight out of the strut/knuckle. remove the brakes, undo the 4 bolts, and use a slide hammer to smack the axles out of the trans. the axle/hub assembly comes right out. BUT, you WILL have to seperate the axle from the hub in order to put your hubs on the manual shafts tho. if you are using your original hubs on the manual shafts than you should seperate axle from the hub before you pull the auto axles out. you will need that big socket and a 2-jaw puller to do this. then you can leave the hubs in (leave those four bolts alone). after they are separated just use the slide hammer to get the axles out of the tranny. pop the lower ball joint (so you can swing the strut/knuckle assy. out a little) and pull the axles out. be careful not to seperate the CV joints during installation/reinstallation. now is a good time to replace the axle seals in the trans. for reinstallation, lube the splines and seal then push the manual axles into the tranny by grabbing the inner CV joint w/both hands and shoving it into the tranny. make sure it is fully seated. then reinstall the outer end of the axle into the already mounted hubs. tighten the big nut to spec and do the ball joint, brakes, and you should be good to go. both axle shafts will need to be replaced because they are shorter that the autmatic shafts. the shafts are available at Checker or Advance etc....you could probably even use your auto shafts as cores. you WILL need a slide hammer to get the axles out of the transmission tho. i bought a 9lb slide hammer from the harbor freight tool store in ft.collins,CO for like $18 bucks and it works great. it sounds kinda hard but it really isn't. now that i've done it a couple times i could probably change both axles within an hour. if you need any more help ask away
joshua