3 bar for 8f

[Jeff M]

Hey, close enough to 12?s for me, aside from some issues that have nothing to do with the potential that I see is there, you got a 12 second TGP and the fastest in the lands :icon_mrgreen:, for now :icon_lol:, though that "for now" might last quite a while :icon_wink:.

Yep, it is about cfm or mass air that matters, we do have a ton of guys that have been on here/might still be(?) that know this as fact as well and could chime in.  Boost pressure is a measurement of the pressure backing up in the intake, ie restriction there and after for air on its way to filling the engine?s cylinders.  So some great work to the heads, intake and cam and now the air has less restriction and flows easier and you WILL make MORE power, AND at a LESSER PSI!  That is good for many reasons, asking less of the turbo allowing it to do a better job, asking less of the intercooler allowing it to do a better job keeping things cool, and of course making more power while still keeping the boost down for pump friendly gas and well within a 2 bar setup!  Keeping in that thought, if the engine does not flow its best and someone?s wants are looking for more hp, and a huge turbo is in their mindset, too large a turbo making up for a poor flowing engine will end in looking at a too-large of turbo with big lag and a lame power band.  The best engine design books I have even show that once an engine is made to really flow on its own, that other bandage mods are no longer critical as before such as a turbo cam or higher stall converter.  Of course those wanting to run super fast times will still use even larger turbos with higher stall converters but people need to be reasonable, is not the hp Jud has more than enough???  Put yourself in his seat, you got slicks and limited traction, and you want more hp?

If I find that I need more than a 2 bar setup to achieve no traction ever :lol: then its time for a real tuning tool, DFI, Fast or BigStuff3.  The Meany Brothers and Lance Ward designed all of these and know enough shit to be able to blast me out of the water no matter how much I learn in my lifetime, these are setups that are priced damn good for what they can do AND!!!!....compared to all the time, tools and frustration it would take to make a 3 bar stock ECM setup, these are the better choices for engine management and really big hp, you got to balance the full values here, these stand-alones can kick our ass in power tuning where as you plug in their wideband (same one all the wide bands use today, LSU4.2), tell the computer you want to start with 11.2 at torque peak and 11.5 at hp peak and it will tune the damn fuel tables for you!  The Bigstuff3 is now fully an owned by the Meany?s setup, with boost control, knock sensor, staged NOS, ton of shit, that is the way I would go if my TGP is lacking for its 2 bar limit, now for my Typhoon, my old DFI is for sale :icon_twisted:.

To help the traction issues, hey Jud, I really need to know, are both of your tires turning/burning the same amount/leaving the same patch on the pavement????  I ask since I know for a fact that after the differential gets some heavy wear it no longer puts the power to both the tires equally, had a local TGP owner who complained he was smoking all the way through 1st and well into 2nd gear :shock: and I only had him setup with a 100 octane chip and a stock engine/turbo etc, come to find he was only getting one tire power and that one tire was spinning/smoking all the way down the road, the other tire was not doing shit!  He was slower than shit because of this.  If anyone has seen the pic of the patch I left showing off this car?s power/our TGP, there are 2 nice even dark patches that the car left since the differential was in good shape on that TGP.

Next is squat, taking the weight off the front end/front drive tires, we get that and Jud if you don?t mind a stiff ass backend, I got some drag blocks that will keep your ass up and proud as you launch and go down the track with the weight kept on your front tires much better.  I have had these for several years and they are top quality products.  Had a 13.56 TGP owners test these at the track, only a little work to install and since you have no issues with engine/wrench work at all :icon_biggrin:, might be easy enough for you to take them out for daily/softer driving and then install them back in for drag runs :icon_twisted:.  It?s like 4 nuts/bolts and in they go, and these are safe for our cars I will attest to that!

As for the intercooler, actually glad to hear its stock, that means yet another potential for extra power without doing-over the rest of your setup!  The stock intercooler is better than most ?stock? setups, but when really pushed, will show its weakness.  I have pressure and temperature taps before and after the intercooler and I have found (a solid 100 degree drop, sweeeeet) 2 psi of pressure drop when running 12 psi, so that means the turbo is putting out 14 psi at that point and should not have to if the intercooler did not suck down 2 psi for being there!  Same as with those thinking 3 bar is the only way to go, lets first make what we have better or the best it can be.  Now I know like you, an upgrade is going to be a task, I too have looked at it time and time again hoping I would see something that would make it not as hard to do, but other than some huge pipes running under the radiator support :icon_rolleyes:, no other easy way to run pipes to the front of the car, but??..(I got to quit giving my secrets away) if you look into the front of the fender on the driver?s side, in front of the vacuum reservoir ball there is quite a bit of room to relocate the battery to, maybe even a smaller/lighter D51R size Optima Yellow Top Sealed Battery (I have one sitting here :icon_wink:) that can be mounted in any position (i.e. no spillage issues).  You can even relocate that vacuum ball somewhere else easy enough, it won?t care where you put it.  Then there might be enough room with the battery gone to get some intercooler hoses through the front clip and for a front mount setup.  There is also (so many more I cannot post, Kenny says no mini-novels) a much bigger/thicker intercooler core from Garrett that has the same length and width that with some new cast ends could be made to fit in the stock location!  And yet more?..if the battery is relocated like I said and for some reason the intercooler pipes cannot make use of the extra area for a front mount and/or the larger stock replacement Garrett I mentioned is used, this old battery location will for sure be the best/perfect cold air setup that can be made, and very easily made!!

Ok, no more.

Jeff M

[gimper]

 :icon_wink: ok so this thread kinda answered my question if you did a disassemble / assemble of the $8f bin. Was looking for someone actually working with the code it self. Looked at different places and at ftp.diy-efi.org there was a some what commented $8f code but no "owner" or comments who had done the work. It also looked like the code it self wasn't working (beside some of the code wasn't extraced sine some of the jumps was out of the address space if I don't remember incorrectly.

Anyways, some working be it std or modified code that is actually somewhat commented would be a more than great. I'm not new to programming (both assembler and C) so I hope I could contrib a bit.....

Cheers Gimper

[TurboGTU]

Without going into major hex..I would try the Sy/ty 3bar code on the ECM.

I had a somewhat diss. of the code itself, but not too much into what each part does in the code or how it translates.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/diy-prom/244781-3-bar-patch-58-a.html

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/diy-prom/245659-source-code-dummies-ask.html