How to replace your Distributor Delete O-Ring.

[pontiac6ksteawd]

Mods, if you want to clean this up, be my guest, It took alot to type that all out, and I dont want to do it again... Hell I can even get pics if you want, I am replacing injectors on the STE right now.

TB is short for Throttle Body..

Unplug the MAT plug, either on the air filter housing, or left side of the intake plenum.
You have to take out the air cleaner assembly (air filter, snorkel, tank, lid, and asociated clamps)
Followed by looseing the 3 bolts that hold on the EGR valve and pulling it back off the 3 studs. DO NOT REMOVE the EGR valve, not required for this operation.
Followed by the vacume manifold at the TB
Followed by the 2 bolts that hold the throttle body to the upper intake plenum
Followed by removing the large air vacume hose that comes off the back of the intake plenum going to the brake booster (If Aplicable)
Followed by the 2, 13mm nuts, one on each side of the large vacume line you just took off.
Followed by the 2, 8mm bolts that hold on the spark plug wire holder (if aplicable),
Orr pulling off the hose that holds the wires to the upper intake plenum.
Followed by the 9 or 10, 10mm bolts that hold the upper intake plenum on.
Smack it lightly on the corner with a hammer to break the seal with the seals, and carefully remove the uppper intake plenum. Making sure not to break any of those vacume lines.
Once that is out of the way, you have to depressureize the fuel system.
Take the cap off the schrader valve, and carefully press down on the pin, while having the area covered by rags.
Once depressureized, you have to take off the 2 fuel lines. They take 2 wrenchs to take off, and are best down with line wrenchs.
You dont have to take the TB off, but you can if you want it out of the way. (the following instructions are to remove the TB)
Unplug all the plugs going to varios sensors on the TB.
Now undo the 2 clamps holding the Throttle Body warmer lines.
These have anti-freeze in them, so be prepared for a slight mess.
Take TB out and set aside.

Now that you have all the crap out of the way, look down under the TB (or where the TB used to be) you will see this round plug, with a Y shaped clip holding it down.
There is a 13mm nut that holds that down, carefully remove that bolt and Y clip.
With Vice Grips, or Channel Locks, grab on to that plug and rotate giving it some wiggle action as you rotate it.
You are trying to break the bond that O-ring has with the Aluminum (sp) block.
Now rotate and wiggle that plug with the vice grips, while pulling up. It will probly take some work, but it will eventually come out.
There will be a rod under that plug, try not to pull the rod out, but dont worry if a rod comes out with it. Thats the oil pump drive shaft.
Just put it back down in the hole, centered, until it falls into the oil pump lead. Might have to turn it until it falls.
Replace the O-ring. and reverse this whole mess to get back together.

As you can see this is a quite entailed procedure, but it can be done. I did my first one in 3 hours, my second in 2 hours, and my 3rd in 1 hour. I have also become quite proficient in taking off the upper intak plenum LOL..

Any questions, dont hesitate to ask..

[TGP Nick]

Just thought I'd add that you DON'T have to take off the intake plenum to replace the oil pump drive seal.  On mine, I just removed the TB (had to be cleaned anyway) to do it.  I'm sure doing it without removing the intake plenum would take much less time to do.  It took me approximately an hour to do it (without removing the plenum) for my first oil pump drive seal replacement.