5 speed swap; need help 10/15

[GutlessSupreme]

Getrag 282 vs. 4T60 (as per 1990 Grand Prix service manual)

Along the way I made some page notations in reference to the manual that might help.
Highlighted in red is the stuff that needs to be changed, I included the complete routing of the wires so I knew what the whole picture looked like.

Guide:

C100: pass. firewall main harness
C202: column harness under dash


Similarities:

Vehicle Speed Sensor (ref: 8A-33)

Same for both transaxles, wires shorter on Getrag (I think? and I can't remember if actual connector is different or not);
YEL from A on speed sensor to C8 on ECM, PPL from B on speed sensor to C2 on ECM


Differences:

Upshift Indicator On Ins. Cluster (unnecessary, do if you wish)

Original: ECM B7 (tan/blk, white connector) to TCC Sol to brake switch to fuse block 5 Indic Fuse

New: ECM B7 (tan/blk) to E1 on C100 (Interior side is prewired, just worry about the engine side) to D6 Instrument Cluster, D5 Instrument Cluster (PNK/BLK) to fuse block 5 Indic Fuse

Summary: TAN/BLK wire going to TCC Solenoid is rewired straight to E1 on the firewall connector, bypassing the TCC SOL.


Clutch switch/tranny position switch (ref: Starter & Charging System 8A-30-0)

Original: PPL from Starter Solenoid to E on Tranny POS Switch, YEL from G on Tranny POS Switch to B3 on C100, YEL from B3 on C100 to B6 on C202, YEL to (START) IGN Switch

New: PPL from starter solenoid to B3 on C100, PPL to Clutch Switch, YEL from Clutch Switch to B6 on C202, YEL to (START) IGN Switch

Summary: Thick purple and yellow wires are cut from tranny position switch and spliced together to bypass the switch. Yellow wire on C202 Connector is cut and rerouted through clutch switch before going back to C202. Kills IGN if clutch is not depressed.


Cruise Control (ref: 8A-34, 8A-201-11)

Original: BRN from B from Brake Light Switch to G (Disengage Input) on Cruise Control Module

New: BRN from B on Brake Light Switch to B on Cruise Control Clutch Switch, BRN/WHT from A on Cruise Control Clutch Switch to G on Cruise Control Module

Summary: Brown wire going to brake light switch is cut, cruise cutout is spliced in between cut.


Reverse Light Switch (ref: Back Up Lights 8A-112-0)

Original: LT GRN from C4 on C100 to F on Tranny Position Switch, ORN from D on Tranny POS Switch to Luggage Compartment Release Fuse (RS underhood Electrical Center 15 AMP)

New: LT GRN from C4 on C100 to B on Backup Lights Switch, BRN from A on Backup Lights Switch to 13 ALT FUSE in RS Electrical Center 10 AMP*

*You can leave ORN going to the LCR fuse, no need to change.

Summary: Light green and orange wires are cut from tranny position switch and spliced into reverse light connector.


AIR Switch (Emissions, ref: 8A-20-4) - I don't have this switch so I didn't do anything with it.

BLK/PNK from A18 on ECM to A on AIR Select Switching Valve, BRN from B on AIR SSV to 13 ALT FUSE 10 AMP in RS Electrical Center

NOTE that on TGP's, A18 goes to the wastegate solenoid. I'm sure no one is ever going to swap in an AIR system so this shouldn't be a problem.

At this point, if you have everything apart and want to be really neat, you can remove all remaining sections of wiring from the TCC solenoid and tranny position switch from their source. I reused a lot of the wiring with my new splices and just removed whatever was left, pins/plugs and all.

[twinturbosedan]

these are pics from turbosedan's swap:

http://www.turbosedan.com/cutlass/trans/

he's got some pics mixed in elsewhere I think so browse through the rest of it. I thought he had a decent pic of the clutch mc cutout, but apparently not of after he trimmed it. i don't either unfortunely. just go slow and keep test fitting. I might have a rough list of the wiring changes if you're doing it all correctly w/ the right switches and plugs.

i wish i had taken a pic of the CMC hole after i modified it :icon_redface:

it was pretty easy though.  basically, just turn the round hole into a larger square hole that matches the end of the CMC.  it only took a few minutes with a Dremel tool, a tungsten carbide cutter bit and an 18" long flexshaft.  i didn't even remove the brake booster.  like others have already said, it's very important to make small cuts and test fit often.  that tungsten carbide cutter cuts very fast and goes through the sheet metal like nothing.  i never did use the anti-rotation screw.  i just made the hole so it fits very tightly in place and then rotated the CMC 45*.  it has never fallen out or gotten loose once and it has been 5 years now since i did the swap.

[stockgp]

gutless, nice info.  more detailed than i had expected.  i have alldata, so i could have looked all this crap up, but you saved me a lot of time :icon_biggrin:

turbo, so basically what you do is cut the hole 90* counterclockwise from its orientation, so it locks in place?

[Invasion1]

my system basicly "sandwiched" the CMC between my halfassed bracket and the firewall so no need for the screw.

and its held there by 3 bolts so there is Zero chance of it moving, but make sure you bleed all the air out of the system otherwise its a pain in the ass to remove and install.

also the Slave Cyl is more or less and one time deal.....once you bust the tabs that hold it in when you first bleed it its fucked.

have fun

[bake82]

also the Slave Cyl is more or less and one time deal.....once you bust the tabs that hold it in when you first bleed it its fricked.

have fun

That is totally what I am most worried about..bleeding the CMC and Slave....

[stockgp]

yeah, me too.  when i was removing all the 5 speed stuff from the ste, i accidentally cut the hydraulic line

[TGPvsTIII]

If I remember correct the FSM said the unit is one piece assy. The aftermarket does sell the individual pieces. When we did Jimmys the only piece we used off the donor car was the hose. the replacement parts came with a paper saying how to bleed it. I remember it as hook up the line to the master. Unhook the clips on the slave with the line off. Let the actualtor move out to the end and fill the slave through the hole until full. I believe tilting the slave a little helped fill it. When full hook the line up and push the actuator back in and hook the clips up. This pushes the fluid up the line and into the master pushing the air out. Leave the clips on when installing the slave onto the trans they will pop off when you push the clutch. Fill the resiviour. I took the old parts apart and found the master has a small hole that is uncovered before the pedal is pushed. As soon as you push the pedal a little the hole gets covered by the piston seal in the master. With its placement it allows the system to automaticly bleed any air that does make its way into the circuit. So if the clutch doesn't quite work when you first push it slowly pumping the pedal will finish getting the air out. Its not hard just don't get Jimmy to help put it together  :icon_rolleyes:
Tim

[Invasion1]

I assemble the whole thing and bench bleed it by pushing the slave plunger in and out till no bubbles come out in the resovoir......

then let it sit

do that 5 more times till your SURE no air is left in

then install it in one piece.

[jimmy]

Its funny how dodge guys have anytime to come to the pontiac side to try to make us look bad, when we all know including all dodge guys as well the work never ends ;) But he's not kidding, when we bought the aftermarket MC I left the little stopper that came with it, in it so here we were trying to figure out why the brand new one wasn't opperating properly. :icon_redface:

I'm and Electrician, Tim's and all day Mechanic with all Certifications, so now WHO'S job should it have been. :skep:

[stockgp]

ok, so the cmc hole is cut.  i got a little overzealous on the bottom right corner, so it's a bit too big.  but, the cmc still fits tight.  i think once i get the anti-rotation screw in, she'll be just fine.

[jimmy]

 Looks like a good job to me, it'll definately work  :thumb: :flamingdevil:

[stockgp]

little update.

got to the wiring today.  i won't be using the clutch switch (temporarily, i forgot to take it out of my ste before it went to the scrap yard), cruise control or the air system, so none of that wiring i need to mess with.  other than that this is a fairly simple procedure.

i extended the wires for the vss using the connector off of my ste harness.  i thought of rerouting it through the harness, but i don't want to take the time to take the engine out and the harness off.

i cut the neutral safety switch connector off and only left the purple, yellow, light green and orange wires in.  soldered the purple and yellow wires together and the orange and green wires to the reverse light switch.  heat shrink and elecrtical tape will make it look neat until i get some wire loom.

that' pretty much it.  i got the subframe, strut tower, tie rod an tranny mount all back together.  the driver's side cv shaft is in.

i ruined the passenger side shaft in the accident that killed the ste.  so, i put the inner spider housing on to the driver's side spider bearing of the tgp.  it looks long enough.  i'm going to take it to napa or something to compare iwth a passenger side 282 axle from their stock to make sure.

if i had a turbo support bracket, this thing would be driveable in the next few days.

things i still need to do:

bought 25 feet of 3/16" brake line. i'm hoping this will be enough to run new lines to the rear calipers so i can have one piece brake lines.

find the fitting for the rear of the plenum that feeds the vacuum to the brake booster

find a brake booster (had one, dropped it and broke it)

find 94+ brake conversion stuff (maybe)

reassemble turbo so i can mock up a support bracket

have hydraulic line made for the clutch, then bleed the system

i'm sure there are more things that i'm not tihnking of.  but, all i really need to drive is the above things completed.  minus the brake conversion stuff, of course.


here's a pic of where i left off today



on a side note, free cookie for whoever can tell me what this connector is.  for some reason i didn't label it like i did everything else during reassembly.  now i can't figure out where it goes



it's in the same loom as the neutral safety switch .



don't know why it just struck me, but is that the connector that plugs into the steering rack?

[GutlessSupreme]

maybe. i can't remember what that one looks like but I can't think of anything else in that area that looks like that one.

[stockgp]

it was.  that was the first thing i did today.

now i need to start working on the brake lines.  oddly, i can't get the fittings from auto zone or advance for the master cylinder.  so, i'll have to get them from a donor in a junk yard somewhere.  and, i see the master cylinder doesn't use a double flare.  it's a bubble flare?  is that the first half of a double flare? seems like a good thing to know before i start working on the lines

[GutlessSupreme]

no, the first half of a double flare is a single flare ;) a bubble flare you need a different tool for. I'm pretty sure napa sells preflared sections, some with bubble, but I don't think they're any longer than 18"