5 speed swap thread

killinprixs · May 14, 2008, 04:45:18 PM

Dam your right on the ball... Your making me realize how f-ing lazy i am... Good luck, cant wait to hear the results.

killinprixs · May 15, 2008, 07:24:47 PM

Hey guys i got a few problems here.... i started taking the 5 speed car apart , i got a lot of stuff undone including exhaust xover, linkage, shifter and brackets center console, (cables are unhooked on both ends but still in the car), brake MC, cruise controll, ect... My problem is i need help or tips on getting the clutch pedal out and the slave cylinder is unbolted but i dont want to break the plastic line.. i need to find out how to remove the clutch pedal aseembly then id really be in business. I have to run right now but wanted to hurry up and post so i could try to get more done tomorrow. Thanks guys, later

bake82 · May 15, 2008, 08:02:54 PM

The CMC is hooked on the clutch pedal up under the dash. you just need to pry it off the pedal and then you can turn it out of the firewall and pull it out. this will allow you to pull the CMC and slave out as a hole unit. I would advise to keep the clutch system in tact,

to remove the pedal all you need to do is unbolt the clutch pedal from the mounting bracket up underneath the dash. IT's a pain in the butt but definetly remove the driver's seat to give you more room to lie on your back and get that bolt out!

TGPvsTIII · May 16, 2008, 06:14:47 AM

don't forget to take the brake pedal too it is not as wide as the auto pedal and the auto brake pedal won't work with the clutch pedal.
Tim

bake82 · May 16, 2008, 06:58:13 AM

I cut my AUTO brake pedal to fit. Works just fine.

Unless you are going to replace the firewall plate, IMO there is no reason to replace the brake pedal. It's a complete PAIN IN THE ASS and you don't need to. Get in there with a sawzall and cut the brake pedal down to size!

killinprixs · May 16, 2008, 01:41:37 PM

Ok thanks a lot, if it saves me a lot of time, ill definately cut the break pedal. So how many bolts are on the clutch pedal mounting braket because so far i have the steering column hanging down so i can see up there... I dont mind getting out a few tight bolts, as long as i knew exactly where they were ill sit there all day...

bake82 · May 16, 2008, 01:58:51 PM

Quote from: grandprixagain on May 16, 2008, 01:41:37 PM
Ok thanks a lot, if it saves me a lot of time, ill definately cut the break pedal. So how many bolts are on the clutch pedal mounting braket because so far i have the steering column hanging down so i can see up there... I dont mind getting out a few tight bolts, as long as i knew exactly where they were ill sit there all day...

What mounting bracket are you talking about? The big grey one the steering wheel mounts to?

you don't need that. In your TGP that bracket is already there. All you need is to unbolt the clutch pedal itself and bolt it into the TGP.

killinprixs · May 16, 2008, 02:02:21 PM

Ill give that a try , i appreciate the help. Im just havin a little trouble understanding how the CMC and slave line work with the pedal, i unhook the CMC line from somewhere on the pedal and then the slave cylinder pops out when i turn it? I already have the CMC resevoir unhooked.... I know its a pain in the ass but at least im learning something...

GutlessSupreme · May 16, 2008, 07:55:45 PM

The slave cylinder is bolted to the transmission housing. [slave cyl]

The CMC had a pushrod with a linkage that goes around a little nub on the top of the clutch petal in the car. There should be a c-clip keeping the linkage from sliding off the pedal, that has to come off, then just slide the linkage off. The clutch pedal is only attached by 1 pivot bolt. It's kinda a bitch. Cutting the steering joint boot in the parts car out of your way wouldn't be a bad idea (under the dash) so you can see what you're doing/have more hand room. [clutch master cyl]

killinprixs · May 16, 2008, 08:48:10 PM

thanks a lot , the pics are very helpful, so the CMC slides out through the engine side of the firewall? Theres actually a few things under the dash i mgiht need, theres a little black box with a few wires coming off , i think it might go to the switch? Do i wire my neutral safety wires to the clutch pedal switch?

GutlessSupreme · May 17, 2008, 10:30:16 AM

Yea, it comes out through the engine side. Disconnect it from the clutch pedal, remove a bolt on the engine side of the firewall, then twist and pull.

I think the black box you're talking about is the cruise control module. You don't need that. You just need the cylindrical switch on the pedal bracket that the clutch pedal hits when it's up. That's the cruise cutout. It has two brown wires coming off of it. This you just wire in series with a wire going from the brake pedal switch to the cruise module.

The other switch you need is the clutch switch on the floor pan: [clutch switch]. That gets wired in series with ignition wires.

Here's a wiring guide I typed up for the swap:
http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=61879.0

killinprixs · May 17, 2008, 02:28:56 PM

Thanks a lot man, that should make things easier. just one question, if you splice the purple and yellow wire the battery will die eventually?

GutlessSupreme · May 18, 2008, 03:59:10 PM

nope. Consider this: whenever your auto trans is in park or neutral, the yellow and purple wires are effectively spliced.

killinprixs · August 14, 2008, 10:28:13 PM

well took me all day but i finally got it! its gotta be a 282 cause its a 88 gp. the subframe was so rusted it fell out when i pryed on it! the back side was already rotted off , luckily it was the drivers side! Gotta love the northeast! So far i got the transmission w/mount, intermediate shaft w/mount, and center console. The car is ripped to pieces so tomorrow i need to grab the cables , clutch pedal and slave assembly.
i do have a few questions :
1. I have the shift cables unhooked, whats the easiest way to slide them out?
2. Can i get axles for this transmission that will work with ABS?
3. The intermediate shaft has a small crack in it, what to do?
4. the plastic clip on the shifter that connects the shift cable is broken, can i use a shifter from a Baretta?

once i get everything straight ill rip my motor out and drop that 4t60 POS on the floor... cant wait... Thanks guys

cobracmdr · August 15, 2008, 08:22:28 AM

Quote from: grandprixagain on August 14, 2008, 10:28:13 PM
well took me all day but i finally got it! its gotta be a 282 cause its a 88 gp. the subframe was so rusted it fell out when i pryed on it! the back side was already rotted off , luckily it was the drivers side! Gotta love the northeast! So far i got the transmission w/mount, intermediate shaft w/mount, and center console. The car is ripped to pieces so tomorrow i need to grab the cables , clutch pedal and slave assembly.
i do have a few questions :
1. I have the shift cables unhooked, whats the easiest way to slide them out?
2. Can i get axles for this transmission that will work with ABS?
3. The intermediate shaft has a small crack in it, what to do?
4. the plastic clip on the shifter that connects the shift cable is broken, can i use a shifter from a Baretta?

once i get everything straight ill rip my motor out and drop that 4t60 POS on the floor... cant wait... Thanks guys

I wish I could help you but I will give this a stab Ike.

1. where do you have them unhooked at the shifter or the trans? At the trans there is that hold down clamp you take off, at the shifter I don't know.
2. You can probably swap out the joint in the axle that goes to the hub with one from an automatic to get the encoder wheel portion of the axle on your manual axles.
3. Depends on where the crack is, it is aluminum so you can tig weld it up or JB weld it. You can drill a hole at either end of the crack to stop it from propogating further then weld it all up. Or get another intermediate shaft.
4. Plastic clip on the shifter no idea what that is but a berretta might work, cavalier, Fiero etc might be the same but who knows. Is it part of the shifter assembly?

good luck and don't disconnect the slave from the master if you can.......it is a bizzatch to bleed this system, don't introduce air if you don't have to.

Ken