Low Fuel Light= Check Guages Light

Started by balkyrollsinred89, December 12, 2008, 01:38:13 PM

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balkyrollsinred89

I'm not sure what the deal is but the other day my low fuel light came on, with a half tank of gas in it, and so did the check guages light. I know the fuel is not low and all the other guages are fine. What sensor(s) am i lookin at replacing to fix the issues at hand?
Thanks
89 Red TGP

TGP Nick

#1
You need to resolder your gauge cluster.  There is a writeup on it at www.w-body.com

Go to Tech Info, then Common Problems, then "Check Gauges" and/or "Fuel Low" indicators always on. 

Follow that writeup and you will have no more lights!
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

cobracmdr

or you can remove the bulbs and forget about it.  Sometimes the actual etched board gets a crack in that, in that case you will have to solder a jumper from the pin on the board to the next pin after the crack.  It is bitch I hate these clusters

1989 Turbo Grand Prix - missed very much!!!!
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 M6 12.01 @117 mph - Inferno Orange Metallic, long tubes, x pipe, Cat back, all 3" pipe 321 SS, vararam intake, LC-1, diy tune
01 Grand Prix GTP - 3.4 pulley, plog, k&n drop in, u-bend & resonator delete, tuned
03 Suzuki SV650N - zx10 shock, racetech springs/emulators, streetfighter

TGP Nick

There's a right way and a half-assed way, take your pick :laugh:
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

balkyrollsinred89

89 Red TGP

jerry455

I had mine professonaly done, it was perfect for awhile then the light came on occasionaly. when I did the "lighted intercooled mod" i soldered the board and it has been fine. it has been about a year now.

cobracmdr

Nick you should check your attitude at the door pal.  I would rather have my engine running right or my AC working than spending my free time worrying about a light on the cluster that is going to screw up again later  :icon_rolleyes:  Further I have resoldered my cluster and although some of us are skilled enough to do this, others are not.  I was simply offering a suggestion if someone finds it that annoying and does not have the means to fix it.  I was also offering my experience in that resoldering the chip does not always fix it because as I said the board does crack and open the circuit in the etching.  In this case you will have to run a wire in parallel to the etching circuit on the board for it to go off.  Unless you etch your own circuit boards?  I don't have this capability. 

Or you can send your cluster out and spend $100 bucks or so to get it fixed, to each his own I guess.

Ken

1989 Turbo Grand Prix - missed very much!!!!
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 M6 12.01 @117 mph - Inferno Orange Metallic, long tubes, x pipe, Cat back, all 3" pipe 321 SS, vararam intake, LC-1, diy tune
01 Grand Prix GTP - 3.4 pulley, plog, k&n drop in, u-bend & resonator delete, tuned
03 Suzuki SV650N - zx10 shock, racetech springs/emulators, streetfighter

TGP Nick

It was a joke man. :icon_rolleyes:  But seriously, the correct way to fix that problem is to resolder the cluster.  Sure, taking out the bulb will get rid of the lights, but there is a correct way to do the job, and there is something to be said for doing a job correctly.

I'm not arguing with you. ;)
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

killinprixs

im pretty good at soldering... we need a full writup with pics on this matter. 

jerry455

a place called specmo checked out  my cluster and supposedly fixed that problem and checked accuracy of all gauges, they charged $200 and less than a year later was doing the same thing. thats when i did it myself.