Lower Control Arm bushings

[PhatMpk]

What is the procedure for replacing lower control arm  bushings? Can it be done without completely dissasembling the entire subframe? My car is pulling really hard under sudden braking and sharp turns. Replaced the front struts and want to know what else would cause this tie rod ends sway bar?

[killinprixs]

front subframe bushings

[PhatMpk]

how would I start to remove the subframe bushings?

[killinprixs]

its best to remove front bumper... 3 bolts a side , a few on top and a few on the wheelwell.. 10mm.   theres a hole in the frame behind the subframe bolts to acess the retainer ( wd-40/ liquid wrench... torch if you need to heat the threads.   Then you will have to loosen the subframe bolts.    The rear is a differnet story but usually the front ones go bad first because the front of the subframe is constantly getting pulled down , the bushing are probably toast.   Jack up front of car, put unibody on jack stands and slowly lower the jack, see how much play there actually is with the weight of the car off the bushings/subframe.  Hope that helps.

[PhatMpk]

thanks should be able to take a look really soon

[PhatMpk]

checked the subframe bushings looks ok to me no significant damage one control arm bushing is shot tho

[Prospeeder]

bad balljoint too, if you have the control arms off, replace them tooo

[White93z34]

Yeah if the car is pulling sharply to one side or the other check your balljoints. I had one that the bolts backed out of and did very similar things to what you describe.

[killinprixs]

same thing happened to me as well, new ball joints, threads were too clean and backed out a few months later... threadlocker/ fix. 

[PhatMpk]

OK back at it again whats the easiest way to remove the front control arms/ ball joints/ sway bar? one control arm bushing rubber is completely gone this must be addressed

[Dark Ride]

Ball Joints if original are riveted to the strut knuckle and need to be ground off, A ball-joint seperater works well to seperate them from the control arm.  For control arm removal the sway bar doesn't need to be removed and it's a pita to do so.  Just remove the bolts holding the sway bar end link to the control arm.  Then removing the control arm is easy in theory, There are two bolts on each side that go through a sleeve in the bushings.  Unfortunatly they seize more often than not and they must be ground apart as well which believe me is a horrible PITA.

There is a Poly bushing mod for the control arms but it's more work, but not that much more expensive.

[PhatMpk]

working on the suspension, back in the lab. Stuck brake caliper was not helping after a battle with that. After emergency room trip from my fathers broken finger from 120 psi to unstick the claliper with air compressor without cushing it. Not good. replaced the control arm bushing on the driver side new ball joint really stiffened that side. One more side to go and might be looking at replacing the subframe bushings as well. :icon_rolleyes:

[bake82]

might be looking at replacing the subframe bushings as well. :icon_rolleyes:

They are not that bad.  I would loosen the fronts a few turns, do the rears, and then leave rears a little loose and do fronts.  Should give you enough room to get them in/out w/o much trouble.  If you do this, make sure you use NEW subframe bolts.  I broke an old one torqueing to 108ftlbs and it's a PAIN IN THE ASS to fix.

[PhatMpk]

thanks all for the input will post the results

[PhatMpk]

Threaderlocker on the ball joint nuts one side backed out causing horrible steering replaced the other side today driving in a straight line noticed some play on the driver side second front subframe bushing