My current situation...

Started by Fred931, October 17, 2011, 07:54:21 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Fred931

So far I have installed a K&N filter, Stage II tune from Adam, 19# Ford injectors, and replaced the OEM ignition coils.

Currently, the car idles high while in park, goes to normal when shifted out of park, but then goes straight back up when shifted back into park. Hot or cold. The car is hard starting (~20 seconds cranking) and of course smells like gas. No CEL. When I get a chance, going to check the fuel filter first then the vac lines. Any other suggestions?

Fred931

Oh, and of course some asshole in one of the shop classes SAT on my hood and left a couple dents in it. :icon_evil:

PhatMpk

#2
check the fuel pressure bad fuel pressure regulator the fuel pressure will drop off fast when you turn the key off, also looking at the spark directly, example connecting a spare spark plug into the end of the plug wire and then grounding it out to the chasis or engine bolt, good spark = bright blue  orange spark is all bad

PhatMpk

my car still idles high when I start it  :icon_neutral:

grinders_18

Next time you go to start it, turn the key into the ON position, but do not start it. Leave it in the ON position for 10-15 seconds, then press the key forward to start it. If it fires up quickly after that, it's a good sign your fuel pump may be going.

Did you check the fuel pressure?

This radio station was renamed Krenzy in honor of the last American hero to whom speed means freedom of the soul. The question is not when he's gonna stop, but who is gonna stop him.

Fred931

FP with the key in the ON position as well as running is ~32psi, according to the Hayes manual this is ~10psi low. Took off the fuel filter and black crap fell out of it. Hopefully that won't trace back to the tank...

PhatMpk

#6
as long as the fuel pressure holds, and does not drop off quickly after turning the key off, then you should check the spark maybe look into used ICM. Could be as simple as a bad alternator, its more just trial and error.

Fred931

Fuel pressure drops to 5 and builds once I start cranking, and it slowly goes down after I shut it down. Figured it out, though; never had this problem until I put in Adam's tune and some bargain-bin $20 19#/hr Ford injectors. Problem solved, gotta get ones that don't dump fuel into the cylinders. :icon_redface:

NTRCOOL

I think it is in the TGP handbook somewhere about not using bargain bin parts...  :laugh:
NTRCOOL

1989 RED TGP interior gutted for racing, hard top, added a wing from GTP, MSD ignition, chip from flybynite, K&N air filter.
1990 RED TGP leather intr, moon roof, needs just bout everything
1990 BLACK TGP cloth intr, aftrmrkt moon roof
1977 Chevy Caprice areo back coupe soon to have Cadillac 500cuin.
1980 olds 98 coupe
1993 Ford Festiva GL
1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ, 3" Rough country lift
1987 Buick LeSabere T-Type
1990 Cadillac brougham

Fred931

It was from Ebay and they were only up for three hours more, and I had to leave for school literally the second I saw it, so I screamed at my dad to wake up and use my card and buy the damn things... It sure said they were used but fully functional... Took them out this afternoon and showed them to my instructor, and he said he couldn't see anything wrong with 'em and he's gonna bring an injector tester tomorrow. Also, the FPR is brand-freaking-new, so it isn't that.

This sucks.  :icon_sad:

NTRCOOL

Southbay fuel injectors I have heard are pretty good company to go through they flow test their rebuilt injectors and they cover a wide variety of injectors.
NTRCOOL

1989 RED TGP interior gutted for racing, hard top, added a wing from GTP, MSD ignition, chip from flybynite, K&N air filter.
1990 RED TGP leather intr, moon roof, needs just bout everything
1990 BLACK TGP cloth intr, aftrmrkt moon roof
1977 Chevy Caprice areo back coupe soon to have Cadillac 500cuin.
1980 olds 98 coupe
1993 Ford Festiva GL
1998 Jeep Cherokee XJ, 3" Rough country lift
1987 Buick LeSabere T-Type
1990 Cadillac brougham

Fred931

#11
Injectors tested out just fine, but I did see that the o-rings on the metal fuel lines where they attach to the fuel rail were torn to bits. Anyone know where to get them?

mfewtrail

Quote from: Fred931 on October 27, 2011, 07:22:24 PM
Injectors tested out just fine, but I did see that the o-rings on the metal fuel lines where they attach to the fuel rail were torn to bits. Anyone know where to get them?

What were they tested with? If you only ohmed them out or tested with with a fuel injector activator....that only shows that they're electronically sound. That doesn't tell you that they leak under pressure.

Injector o-rings can be purchased at pretty much any auto parts store. Injector o-rings for our cars or for a Ford 5.0 mustang will work.

When you reinstall these injectors in the fuel rail, do not bolt down the rail and install the intake, etc. yet. Install them in the rail and place paper towels beneath each injector. Temporarily hook up the battery and turn the key forward to pressurize the fuel system. Now look at your paper towels and see if any of your injectors are leaking onto them. If so, they need to be dealt with. ;)
'93 SE, '90 Black/tan TGP, & '90 Red/tan TGP

Fred931

#13
Quote from: mfewtrail on October 27, 2011, 09:33:12 PMInjector o-rings can be purchased at pretty much any auto parts store. Injector o-rings for our cars or for a Ford 5.0 mustang will work.

I don't need O-rings for the injectors, I need O-rings for where the fuel rail bolts to the two metal fuel lines that go into it.

And I found the bad injector this afternoon. Thanks Mfew.

mfewtrail

Quote from: Fred931 on October 28, 2011, 04:54:23 AM
I don't need O-rings for the injectors, I need O-rings for where the fuel rail bolts to the two metal fuel lines that go into it.

And I found the bad injector this afternoon. Thanks Mfew.

I believe the part stores should have those as well. Just ask about fuel line/rail o-rings and they should have a kit with them in it.
'93 SE, '90 Black/tan TGP, & '90 Red/tan TGP