I got the GR2 struts now. they ARE less bumpy.  I am starting to think my friend Wade likes to misinform people to try to keep them in the dark. we were going to try for the" G-Force " he supposedly installed on my other car and found nothing.  He also installed a rack and pinion on my other car and never greased it  :laugh: :laugh:. Jokes on me. f-ing ass hole.

my new rack on my new car turns like butter now compared to the other one which now has grease in it. :icon_evil:

what Jud said :laugh:

take your PMIII you took out and hook up the power drill battery just like I said.  the pump should run momentarily while you brush some hot wires across the terminals of the plug. If it dont run then the pump dont work. its just to verify that the pump is fried and its not something else

I would take the unit out (maybe do it while its in?) hot wire the positive and negative and see if the pump will run.

try the other one too.  touch the wires with a power drill battery or something. thats how I test window motors in the junkyard.

once again, I have been here WAY before you got this gig. It is a FACT that that is a rule of thumb for car electronics, and I have proof of this in a instruction manual from one of the top car audio manufacturers in the world for wiring their amplifiers. now I have never seen a ground in a car much longer than 18 inches stock so let me know if you can find one. maybe the block-to-battery but thats much thicker than the rest.


You want to argue the fact that longer wires need to be thicker to carry the same signal?

Quote from: R Dubya on December 14, 2006, 10:42:56 PM
you guys get a bad batch of lettuce out in Colorado as well? 

Its been all over the news here, Taco Bell was distributing E. Coli around the northeast, apparently traced to lettuce.  Dinosaur BBQ took a hit a couple weeks back, apparently someone was distributing a stomach flu like virus, 600 people got sick.  Thats a big deal too, that place is huge business and the food is great.  I won't think twice about eating there, but Taco Bell, forget about it.  That place is nasty anyway. 

They fared better than Chi Chis though, Hepatitis on the scallions.  We don't have Chi Chis here anymore LOL.

employees are dumb as hell when they handle vegetables. they were grown in manure and they consistently ignore the fact. placing unpeeled onions on the counter before cutting. they have brains in their head but refuse to use them.

its a general "rule of thumb" for all  wireing on all 12 volt shit. it can be longer but 1. no need 2. more resistence.

grounds need to be improved, but making them longer does not improve them.

oh wait, I guess Jud covered that already  :icon_redface:  yea, what Jud said. :icon_cool:

the fuse has a clear window on top of it, you should be able to see that one pink fuse for the pump motor easy. 30 amp one. I think they're slow-blow fuses, cost like $2.50 each. so get em from the J/Y. bet thats all it is. If it keeps blowing the fuse the pumps going out. keep an eye on it when the system primes itself when you first hit the key.

Quote from: TurboGTU on December 13, 2006, 02:34:40 AM
:icon_twisted:  :icon_mrgreen:
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:icon_frown: No.  :icon_rolleyes:

I had still been playing with the thunderbird, driving the BMW and working like a dog and paying the house off.
Now that the thuderbird went down (crashed at 120mph against the wall first week this month)...I'll have time to work on the TGP.

But as far as I'm concerned..there shouldn't be any problem adapting the 65 parts. should be stright foward. Have you run into a stumbluing block?

Youcrashed at 120????????    glad you are still with us!!!!  was it fun? :laugh:


so you found that the 65 has some of the same internals as the 60 huh?..hmmm I will keep that in mind.  but how do you check real easy if the diff is good and other quick checks since I have a spare TGP tranny sitting here?

I drove my car for 20 days this summer when I first fired it up and the fluid kept leaking and the motor went dry. thats when they fry. now I keep filling it up and its barely hangin in there. doubt its the pressure switch or the relay. I got a pressure switch and didnt help shit. just thought it was leaking but did UV dye and seen it drip right out the plunger weep hole. same place on both units so if anyone is reading and has a good top half with a fried pump motor, I want it.

Quote from: TGP Nick on December 13, 2006, 06:56:04 PM

Quote from: R Dubya on December 13, 2006, 05:40:39 PM
I know this may come across as a derogatory question, but have you checked the fluid?  There are two compartments in the MC, one for the rear brakes and one for the fronts.

Yes I have checked and topped off the fluid very frequently while bleeding the brakes.

Quote from: Invasion1 on December 13, 2006, 05:49:21 PM
Nick your patience and commitment is amazing with this car!! many others would have washed their hands of it already

good for you!!

Thanks man!  I would also like to thank everyone for their time and input- it has really helped me out and it is greatly appreciated!  :thumb:

Quote from: Prospeeder on December 13, 2006, 06:45:14 PM
Hmm if the pumps not turning on, its possible that the pressure switch isnt telling the pump to turn on? Or that the pump in it isnt plugged in or defective.

Well what I am curious to know is why the pump would suddenly stop working like this.  When I was bleeding the brakes yesterday and the battery died, the pump was working great.  Today, the pump NEVER turned on, no matter how many times I pushed the brake pedal, or what bleeder I opened.  Any other ideas?
Thanks much
Nick

This was me all summer. working trying to make the best of two PMIII units. took it in and out like 6 or 7 times and switched pumps and accumulaters. bought a new pressure switch and installed it. net result: one leaking piece of crap. the pump works, pressure switch works, slight 1/2 sec. delay  and it leaks a little too much out of the weep hole in the plunger housing. If I decide to get a Prior unit I'll give you my good working pump motor and you can bolt it on yours.

alright, not trying to jinx you but its probably fried if it killed your battery. unless you have LED taillights.

if it is impossible to get the lights off after adjustment. then that means the switch contact got hot and melted the plastic.

its designed to run that much current for only a minute or two max. incandescent bulbs suck power, imagine 6 or 8 of them on 1 skinny wire running all the way back to the trunk. combine that with a poor battery ground and it equals 1 fried switch.

yea clean it with some paint stripper.

its the white flimsy awkward looking thing clipped to the brakepedal pivot. has 2 wiring harnesses.