Ok I'll try that thanks

Looking for a good working pressure switch for the power master 3. Might consider whole working pm3 if price is right.. thanks!

Well I found an accumulator on eBay that should interchange, replaced it to finally try and fix the weak assist and pump running every pedal press. Now cars been sitting a few years. Got it installed. Pump will run pretty short time from total depressurization, 20 seconds maybe instead of over 60. Like the pressure switch is telling it to stop too early. It will run the pump every pedal press or sometimes 2 presses. if I hold the pedal, the pump will erratcly come on and off, and then abs light comes on solid. Sound like the switch?

Will Ones from a 85-87 turbo regal looks exactly the same, just different numbers. Not sure if threads or open close pressures are similar...or does maybe somebody have a good switch?

Accumulator I got https://www.ebay.com/i/311491977981

http://erie.craigslist.org/cto/4719797732.html

http://montgomery.craigslist.org/cto/4595141345.html


Just lookin to see what TGPs are still out there, found this, maybe somebody could rescue it or use it for parts.

Ignition control modules give some pretty awful running symptoms, bad ECU can cause a host of running issues, bad injectors, on these cars they are known to fail, OHM check all of them, if any of them are lower than 11.9 they are junk.

im confused too. is it the coolant lines from the throttle your talking about? If so just bypass the stupid thing, its just warming the throttle body so just in case its -20 outside and your going 60 mph it wont freeze up the throttle plate.

one of these days i really would like my HUD unit to stop flickering, parts of the image going away. ect...

sure sounds like what happens when the speedo gears come apart, I have replaced the gear on alot of VW and audi stuff thats starts just the same, bounces around like crazy then suddenly no more speedo. Try pulling the entire governor assembly out and make sure the gear on it looks ok.

mine was exactly the same, lol, i had to raise the engine quite abit further up to get the new mount in. what a difference!

Anybody else come up with anything else? No way this one would work? its for the Teves system like in pontiac 6000s and some buicks and other GM products.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACDelco-25528382-Pressure-Accumulator-/271067617697?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3APontiac&hash=item3f1ce399a1&vxp=mtr

Well, its just a relay, it shouldnt be hard to adapt some other type of relay in place of it. Theres usually just a trigger and ground, and a main hot, and the Load which is the pump. just be sure the relay you use has a decent amperage rating, like 20-30 amps. Relay is just a safe reliable way to control something, the abs pump in this case. So the trigger is usually from the low pressure switch, and is hot, it goes through a electromagnet inside the relay, and through to ground, that causes a switch to flip inside the relay, making the main hot go to the pump. Very simple, your mechanic shouldnt have much trouble making something work.

That fuse should be hot all the time. Looking at the wire diagrams, theres a fuseable link in the LS electrical center, im assuming is the fuse box on the passenger side under the hood. If anything just run a new hot wire from the battery.

Well, first, make sure theres no vacuum leak. Next see if the crossover pipe is original, if it is, its leaking, and that will cause the issue. Do some research in this site it will all become clear. Last, if those are taken care of, the stock chip has many faults and needs replaced with a retune. Flybynight is the guy to talk to, burned me a great chip. I have mine running very well with new injectors, crossover pipe, sensors, tune up stuff and, if i put the stock chip back in, dies randomly at slow speeds or putting it into reverse. Theres also service bullitins from GM saying replace with updated tune, which still were no good.

thought id update this. It is fixed. Found intake temp sensor reading about 50 degrees higher than it should. Way out of spec. repaced it, fired right up first turn of the key every morning!

13,500 ohms is  20 degrees F
7500 ohms 40F
3400 70F
1800 100F
450 160F
185 210F

Mine said it was 1800 ohms when the engine was about 40F  and it would just long crank crank crank and eventually it would chug to life.