I got the reverse star bit to get the front 2 bolts of the pass. seat,  man the threads are  long on those SOBs. Has anybody gotten their old carpet out? And How long does it take?

Thanks.

I have taken a few all the way apart, and more than just the carpet :lol:   You will find all the bolts, a few hiding in the console, look for them once all the shifter cover and all that is off, you will have to jerk really hard to get the cover over the DIC off, expect a few of the connectors there at the cover to the DIC to go flying, I leave on 2 instead of 4 of these mothers.  Other than that, rest is easy actually once the front seats are out and the rear lower pads, don't think you have to take out the upper rear seat pads.  Once all this is out (even did it with it all in), I block the heater ducts that go under the seat, screw the people in the rear, us guys in the front want the extra air flow in the colder months :twisted: .  Also if you ever think you are going to do some stereo work later, best time now to run some spare wires!!!!, I also found quite a few amps fit under the passenger's seat and use the air duct to run my wires in and protect them, one side of the duct for RCA and speaker wires and the other side for power and ground and remote-on.  Oh yea, just in case you did not figuer this one out, move the seat all the way Forward and Up to access the rear star bolts!!!

Seen JC Whitney has replacement carpet, never got far enough into the fun stuff with my cars to get theirs but expect them to be for sure better than stock!!  Let me know if you get one, I know a lot of guys would love to get some feedback on that!!!!

Good luck, going to be a great car to keep once you get done, but who wants to be all done :lol: , I like having a project to keep me into my cars 8)

Jeff M

i took the carpet out of mine, and agree with what Jeff said.  Shouldn't take too long, maybe an afternoon to do the whole swap.  Good luck with it!  I think the hardest part is handling the thing by yourself... its kinda heavy and clumsy to move around in a small space.

Thanks Jeff, I did finally find the 2 back bolts. You really have to slide it forward hard on mine before they appear.
I was going to ask where you find the carpet . JC Whitney it is . I Will check it out and let you know how it fits. That wiring for the stereo sounds like a very good idea. I did not even know those were supposed to be vents!

By the way what is the computer under the seat there? the black tape wrapping all the wires was a little shredded and the wires were a little chewed up but not too bad. Im actually hoping to find a problem right now because then I can fix it!

My driver door lock has power on the lock but no unlock. and I have been trying to trace it . it is a short somewhere in the car (not the door)I think because I have a parts car and I took and put a jumper to bypass the door harness and everything. Swapped out the switch and the lock actuator and no luck.
Trying to get it ready in case I ever get a key fob. :wink:

The computer is for the anti-lock Brakes...

Quote from: GP ApeThat wiring for the stereo sounds like a very good idea. I did not even know those were supposed to be vents!

You might want to keep those heater ducts if you do any backseat exploring in cooler weather :moon:  :lol:

Quote from: GP ApreBy the way what is the computer under the seat there? the black tape wrapping all the wires was a little shredded and the wires were a little chewed up but not too bad. Im actually hoping to find a problem right now because then I can fix it!

Yep ABS Computer is sitting inside the black plastic box.  I would check those wires for making contact with the underside of the seat, there are ways to attach the wires to the bottom of the seat to avoid this, just don't secure them too much to the bottom of the seat or when the seat moves full forward and full back, it might bind!!

Quote from: GP ApreMy driver door lock has power on the lock but no unlock. and I have been trying to trace it . it is a short somewhere in the car (not the door)I think because I have a parts car and I took and put a jumper to bypass the door harness and everything. Swapped out the switch and the lock actuator and no luck.
Trying to get it ready in case I ever get a key fob. :wink:

I believe the switch grounds the power wire on the other end of the circuit.  There maybe something about this you can ask Shawn Linn, he is very avid about this aspect of our cars, I will get better once I stick a real alarm in my TSTE :lol:

Jeff M

Yea. The door lock circuit are different than the rest of the car. The relay switches the wires from ground to hot to change direction of the motor. Just went through this. If one lock works it's not the relay. I ended up having to replace the tan wire to the drivers door which goes cross car.
I guess the splice came loose in the center of the cross car harness under the dash. I didn't attempt to fix the splice, just ran another wire from C304(behind pas kick panel) to C301 (behind drivers kick panel). It was a real PIA troubleshooting and routing the wire.

Took the relay and switch apart to just look see. They were both in excellent condition for 16 years. :D

Well back to cleaning up the mess the hurricane left.



Jud

Quote from: GangstGP on April 10, 2005, 05:21:21 PM
I got the reverse star bit to get the front 2 bolts of the pass. seat,

just read this thread since i'm removing my seats for a serious cleaning on my Turbo Cutlass.

just wanted to add that you don't need a special reverse star bit for those seat bolts.  a 12-point 8mm socket works perfect.


off-topic: Jud you have a PM :icon_wink: