Install a mechanical boost gauge?

Started by Tooky, October 07, 2002, 10:49:51 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Tooky

Anyone have a guide?  I bought a nice gauge, Autometer "Z Series" black bezel with black gauge and white letters (with red lens over bulb) to closely simulate the TGP instrument cluster.  -30 Vacuum to 20 PSI Boost.  #2601.  I bought a mounting cup 2284 to mount it.  What's the best place to tap in for the boost signal?  Any good locations to mount this gauge?  I was thinking right next to the HUD on the top of the dash.  Where do I wire the light to be in sync with the dimmer switch?  Thanks.

PS: I'm willing to post photos of my install if someone wants?
Josh Straub
1990 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix, GT2871R 475HP-capacity turbo, built 4T60, 28# Injectors, DIY Ostrich realtime chip tune, JeffM Crossover, Cold A/C, BoostValve.com manual controller @ 14 PSI.  200,000 mi factory original motor.  Best time on T25 @ 11 PSI: 14.78 @ 93 MPH.
1991 GMC Syclone: 11.79 @ 114 MPH. Stock with PT51 turbo plus SMC alcohol injection and tuning, 24 PSI

Chris A

I need to get pictures of the install, but I just installed one on the cluster side of the dash right infront of where the factory guage is. Worked out very nicely. I ran the wires right through the side of the cluster bezel and the signal tube out through the grommet for the clutch pedal.  I used a metal coat hanger to poke through the grommet. I then "T'd" off the MAP signal line at the back of the manifold and attached the tube there, routing it behind the master cylidner. Hardly noticeable. For the dimmer i stripped the wire back and removed the blue retainers from the back of the headlight switch and pushed the end of the wires into the cavity where the black wire and the grey(Iirc) wire was. No wires to cut and it stays put.

Tooky

I'm not sure I want to Tee into my MAP sensor signal, it would seem like a sensor you want full signal going to at all times (rather than whatever's left over when the boost gauge has had its share).  Are there any other suitable lines I could use or should I just go with the MAP after all?
Josh Straub
1990 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix, GT2871R 475HP-capacity turbo, built 4T60, 28# Injectors, DIY Ostrich realtime chip tune, JeffM Crossover, Cold A/C, BoostValve.com manual controller @ 14 PSI.  200,000 mi factory original motor.  Best time on T25 @ 11 PSI: 14.78 @ 93 MPH.
1991 GMC Syclone: 11.79 @ 114 MPH. Stock with PT51 turbo plus SMC alcohol injection and tuning, 24 PSI

skalor

When I put a boost gauge in I used the extra port(uses a square drive) on the back of the intake manifold next to the MAP sensor.  I had to go to HomeDepot to get a 90 degree elbow and I had to find an adapter to fit the fitting that came with the boost gauge.  I think I spent all of $5 on the parts at HD.  I think the extra hole was for the vacuum assist line for the power brakes.
'90 Lumina <-- Turbo 3.1 - SOLD :P
'89 TGP <-- getrag 284 equipped - SOLD :(
'89 Olds Cutlass Ciera International coupe

idbeast

Jim W     AKA  Idbeast
04 Supercharged Nissan Frontier Crew Cab 4X4 in sandstone (Light Gold)!!!
Red 89 TGP (14.95 1/4 mile) Not any more...... coming with surprises in the very near future, Black 90 TGP (14.41 1/4 mile), White 90 Turbo STE (15.06 1/4 mile), and now my 2nd White 90 Turbo STE 89 Dodge Shadow ES Turbo

skalor

hey idbeast,  I mounted the boost gauge the same way.  A couple of zip ties on the column. :D
'90 Lumina <-- Turbo 3.1 - SOLD :P
'89 TGP <-- getrag 284 equipped - SOLD :(
'89 Olds Cutlass Ciera International coupe

Chris A

Quote from: TookyCatI'm not sure I want to Tee into my MAP sensor signal, it would seem like a sensor you want full signal going to at all times (rather than whatever's left over when the boost gauge has had its share).  Are there any other suitable lines I could use or should I just go with the MAP after all?

Eh, a signal is a signal. The MAP sensor already has the FPR t'd off of it. You could do like others and add an elaborate brass fitting to the plug on the back of the intake. I think the other vacuum source that comes from the throttle body also is a good signal line. It runs over the MC to the check valve under the cruise control. If you tap it before the check valve it should provide a good boost signal. I used the map on this particular car becasue the hose was already repaired at that location and made it easy to tap into with th plastic tee I had.

idbeast

Just fuel for thought.... taken from this web page...
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/
Probably one of the worst things you can do to your Sy/Ty is install a boost gauge in either the MAP signal or the fuel pressure signal. Those two devices are very important to the proper operation of the ECM and the fuel system. If you install a mechanical boost gauge in one of those lines, that six feet of hose has to be pressurized before the MAP sees the true pressure in the system.
Jim W     AKA  Idbeast
04 Supercharged Nissan Frontier Crew Cab 4X4 in sandstone (Light Gold)!!!
Red 89 TGP (14.95 1/4 mile) Not any more...... coming with surprises in the very near future, Black 90 TGP (14.41 1/4 mile), White 90 Turbo STE (15.06 1/4 mile), and now my 2nd White 90 Turbo STE 89 Dodge Shadow ES Turbo

eclipse5302

Or you could mount your gauges here, like I did....

//www.turboste.com/pod.html

Jason

turby


eclipse5302

I made it.  The text on the page gives some detail on how it was done.

Jason

Chris A

Like his page says, "that makes sense." I think I'll do a little test to see how much volume is in the line for the guage.  I think the FPR diaphram moving displaces more volume than the line going to the boost guage. I agree though, they are important to the operation of the engine. However, you'd be seeing the EXACT same vac/boost that the ECM is if its inline with the MAP.

1trucavalier

I am already T'd off my map sensor for the BOV.  Will it make a difference if you have more than one thing t'd off the map?  I got the dual guage pod that mounts to the pillar.  Its so simple to just take your heat gun heat it up until it exactly fits the mold of the pillar.  It fits snug like it was meant to be.  Now all I need is the guages.
hi-flow intake, straight pipe, dsm bov, 24lb inj,  polished upper intake, turbo, and frt valve cover.

eclipse5302

I don't know about that...I think it's just easiest to tap off of the rear of the plenum like I did.  I don't want to interupt the signal going to the map/fpr.  What happens if one of those things you added to the line develops a leak?

Jason

1trucavalier

Not sure about long term damage but I will definitely change it soon.
hi-flow intake, straight pipe, dsm bov, 24lb inj,  polished upper intake, turbo, and frt valve cover.