why new dust caps?

incase the valves have a almost unoticed leak. I actually repaired my old taurus AC like this because after putting a 1/3 can of R12, there was a slightly small leak on the valve. Put soap on it to find it.  A bubble formed and got bigger min after. Put a dust cap on and sprayed soap watter agan..no leaks. BUT the AC compressor locked a month later  :laugh:.

But you also don't wanto put frieon or pressure test it if dirt or dust got on it from not having one or old ones not sealing right.

oh...i took mine off to check the valve and it made a very quiet pfffff noise, mine might be leaking like yours

Hey im gonna bring this back, im having my Car in the shop at the *gasp* dealer ship to have A/C system topped off with R12, its not that cold, its never been really cold. I remeberd u guys said possible gunked up accumulator, i hope not, lol. Hopefully this works, i want super cold A/C! Cars only got 74k on it, so it shouldnt have too much crap in it, but i could understand a small leak, probly out that valve where i herd a pff very faintly when i took the dust cap off. 110$ they said all together as my estimate. God i hope thats all it is, lol.

Why not convert it to R134a? In the long run, it'd save you money as you can buy the cans of R134a and refill it yourself, as opposed to R12.

They want 375 to retrofit it, lol. I really dont see the need to open up and replace everything on a system thats working fine right now, if i got a big leak or somthing of that nature than yea i would.

Why would you have to replace anything? Sheesh, these dealers are scam artist! The only thing recomended to replace is the drier tank, but it is not required. I am having my 6000's AC retrofitted at a shop currently, for 200 bucks, and that includes welding up my catalytic converter, safety inspection, and pulling codes out of the computer...

If you open an A/C system to replace the accumulator go ahead and change out the oriface tube. The compressor is usually the culprit if debris is moving around the system. The accumulator is on the low side of the system before the compressor. If the compressor throws any trash is flows through the condenser then onto the oriface tube. Most of your debris will be on it. Also when we converted Jimmys car to R134 The one parts man said most of the local shops (we are in Florida) use ford oriface tubes (blue) when they convert GM's to R134. We also dropped the freon level to just under 2lb. The system worked great that way.
Tim

         He ain't lying, it works like a champ and it is cold , but if I had to pick between the two on coldest, I would definatley go with R12. But most of all TGP are up north anyway, so staying with the R12 might be wasting your money in the long run especially if you suspect a leak. play it smart, switch