BRAKES AARGH!!!!

Started by TGP Nick, December 10, 2006, 05:51:49 PM

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R Dubya

the stop lamp switch set can be tricky, at least I find it to be.  I have found that I really cannot pull back on the brake petal at all or else it will screw up the calibration and the lights will stay on..  but anyway..

Remove the under dash panel if you havent already, that will expose the switch.  On the top of it is a metal tab that needs to be pulled down, best to take a metal clothes hanger and make a loop.  From what I understand, and this may not be correct so you should still seek out other opinions, you need to push the pedal down while that tab is pulled.  It can be tricky to get it right so plan on being in that uncomfortable position for a while.

Seats back, drop the column from the dash via the two bolts that hold it up.  That should give sufficient access to the switch.  Good luck.
Ryan Warren
'89 TGP
It doesn't run anymore.

TGP Nick

I have to drop the steering column to adjust the switch?? Jeez...  :icon_rolleyes:
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

TGP Nick

Quote from: R Dubya on December 12, 2006, 08:06:06 PM
the stop lamp switch set can be tricky, at least I find it to be.  I have found that I really cannot pull back on the brake petal at all or else it will screw up the calibration and the lights will stay on..  but anyway..

Remove the under dash panel if you havent already, that will expose the switch.  On the top of it is a metal tab that needs to be pulled down, best to take a metal clothes hanger and make a loop.  From what I understand, and this may not be correct so you should still seek out other opinions, you need to push the pedal down while that tab is pulled.  It can be tricky to get it right so plan on being in that uncomfortable position for a while.

Seats back, drop the column from the dash via the two bolts that hold it up.  That should give sufficient access to the switch.  Good luck.
Are there any other ways of adjusting the switch?  If not, can someone verify that the above is correct?
Thanks
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

sleeperred90tgp

Ryan kinda hit it on the head. I was able to do it without droping the wheel but seems like it would give you more room.

It's been about 4 years but as I remember you pull the wire toward the fire wall with the brake depresssed as far as you can. When you pull the wire you should hear a click. Release the pedal slowly and I believe you will here a rachet sound. That means you got it.

I tried mine a dozen times with no results. I finally took the switch out and a flat spring fell out. Installed new switch.

You are haveing a time aren't you. Hang in there you will get it.

Jud
Quickest TGP on this planet.

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TGP Nick

Quote from: sleeperred90tgp on December 12, 2006, 08:47:25 PM
Ryan kinda hit it on the head. I was able to do it without droping the wheel but seems like it would give you more room.

It's been about 4 years but as I remember you pull the wire toward the fire wall with the brake depresssed as far as you can. When you pull the wire you should hear a click. Release the pedal slowly and I believe you will here a rachet sound. That means you got it.

I tried mine a dozen times with no results. I finally took the switch out and a flat spring fell out. Installed new switch.

You are haveing a time aren't you. Hang in there you will get it.

Jud
Alright thanks man.  Yeah I'm having quite a time here lol.  :willy_nilly:  I'm NOWHERE NEAR giving up, though!  The more I work on it and get it working better, the more "addicted" I guess I would call it I get to this car.  I love my TGP!  :-*
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

GutlessSupreme

i think i did a brief write up on the brake light switch on w-body.. i might've deleted the image off my server but the description should still kinda make sense.
-Tony
gtsdurango.net
'04 Dakota SLT Quad Cab V8 AWD/4x4 - current daily
'90 Turbo Grand Prix STE - Crane H260 Cam, Getrag 282 Swap, 1.6 Rockers, Homebrewn Mildly Ported/Polished Heads/Intakes, Intrax Front Lowering Springs, KYB GR2s, 34mm Sway Bar, CS FSTB, AWeb RSTB, ES Poly Sway Bar Bushings, Cooper Cobra 245 - I'm working on it...
'92 Gutless Supreme SL - Dead
'90 Turbo Grand Prix - RIP 6-15-05

TGP Nick

Hopefully I'll be re-bleeding the brakes today and getting them all sorted out.  I'll keep ya guys posted.  ;)
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

GangstGP

If I have to do it again, I mean when I have to do it again,  :icon_rolleyes: I will remove the driver seat(4 quick bolts) like Jeff M does it and lay down there instead of trying to fold like a pretzel. My friend Colby can adjust it by pulling it but to me its all ass backwards so I just take the switch in and out. anymore, I just pay him to do it.
daily driver: 1990 Turbo Grand Prix 180k miles
backup car: 1990 Turbo Grand Prix 118k miles
spare parts: TGP motor and tranny from a red '89

TGP Nick

Okay which one is the switch- the gray one with the green button sticking out of it or the white thing?
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

GangstGP

its the white flimsy awkward looking thing clipped to the brakepedal pivot. has 2 wiring harnesses.
daily driver: 1990 Turbo Grand Prix 180k miles
backup car: 1990 Turbo Grand Prix 118k miles
spare parts: TGP motor and tranny from a red '89

TGP Nick

OK good.  Hopefully get that adjusted today, too. -hopefully lol  :laugh:
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

GangstGP

alright, not trying to jinx you but its probably fried if it killed your battery. unless you have LED taillights.

if it is impossible to get the lights off after adjustment. then that means the switch contact got hot and melted the plastic.

its designed to run that much current for only a minute or two max. incandescent bulbs suck power, imagine 6 or 8 of them on 1 skinny wire running all the way back to the trunk. combine that with a poor battery ground and it equals 1 fried switch.
daily driver: 1990 Turbo Grand Prix 180k miles
backup car: 1990 Turbo Grand Prix 118k miles
spare parts: TGP motor and tranny from a red '89

R Dubya

switches are still readily available from the GM warehouses all throughout the country when I got one last year.  Once you do it a couple of times its not such a task.  Basically you are trying to position the brake pedal high enough on the switches moving arm so that when the pedal comes back down it opens the circuit and kills the lights.  They can be reset and it may work, but chances are that when you removed the MC it screwed up the calibration and now they stay on. 

When I said drop the column I didnt mean remove it.  There are only two bolts that hold it to the dash panel, and it makes it a hell of a lot easier to get your arms up in there.  I have skinny arms too.  Its cramped.  Expect a back ache.   :icon_mrgreen:
Ryan Warren
'89 TGP
It doesn't run anymore.

TGP Nick

Quote from: GangstGP on December 13, 2006, 02:02:50 PM
alright, not trying to jinx you but its probably fried if it killed your battery. unless you have LED taillights.

if it is impossible to get the lights off after adjustment. then that means the switch contact got hot and melted the plastic.

its designed to run that much current for only a minute or two max. incandescent bulbs suck power, imagine 6 or 8 of them on 1 skinny wire running all the way back to the trunk. combine that with a poor battery ground and it equals 1 fried switch.
No I have a shitty battery.  I have had to charge it at least every 3-4 weeks since I bought the car.  :icon_rolleyes: I've killed the battery a couple times just vacuuming the carpet, cleaning, just having the door open for 1/2 to 1 hour- So yeah battery is due for a replacement sometime here.
Well I'll try to adjust the switch anyway, see what happens I guess.
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT

TGP Nick

I tried to bleed the brakes again today with no success.
I opened the bleeder on one of my rear calipers, nothing came out.
I opened each bleeder from the master cylinder, even REMOVED them, NOTHING CAME OUT!!
And the biggest thing going on was that my pump didn't run AT ALL TODAY.

So I have some new problems.  :icon_rolleyes:  What would make my pump not run?  It ran yesterday.  :dunno:
Jeff, did you have any problems with this PMIII when it was in your TGP?
Nick
1989 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix- LG5 - 4T60HD
2008 Ford Ranger XLT- 2.3 DOHC I-4 - 5MT
2012 Nissan Altima SR coupe- 3.5 V6 - 6MT