what Jud said :laugh:

Alright I got the pump running by my neighbor's idea: I unplugged the 2 BIG wire couplers up by the battery and unplugged the battery for 30 seconds.  After 30 seconds, I plugged everything back in previously removed, turned the key and low and behold the pump turned on!  In order to get the fluid going, I pulled each brake line out of the master cylinder one at a time until fluid came out, then put the brake lines back in. 
Next, I pulled the brake line going IN to the rear proportioning valve until fluid came out of that, while my friend stepped on the brake pedal.  Then I tightened the brake line back up.  (I pulled the line, because I couldn't get the bleeder on the prop valve to come loose.)
Needless to say, the pump runs now and the brakes work better, but not great.  I will be doing a full bleeding at each wheel tomorrow.
The only thing now is: BOTH my BRAKE and ANTILOCK lights are on.  How do I find out why the lights are on?  Do I need a brake code reader?
Thanks for the help everyone, you guys helped me eliminate a LOT of possible things that could've gone wrong!
Thanks much  ;)
Nick

 :cheers: :cheers: :gr_grin: :gr_grin: :werd: :dunno:

unplug the batter for about a min the plug it back in.. if the light stay on then something is still wrong if not then ur good

Quote from: kuntzie on December 16, 2006, 07:54:20 PM
unplug the batter for about a min the plug it back in.. if the light stay on then something is still wrong if not then ur good

I just went and did that.  Both of the lights are on steady.  Just to be sure, I checked the PMIII:  from fully discharged (40 pumps of the brake) it took ~45 seconds for the pump to stop running, so that is good.  And the pump runs every 3 presses of the brake pedal, so that is good also.
What could be going wrong now?  Do I need a brake code reader to figure this out?
Thanks

no code reader is necessary.  The red light on all the time is due to the fluid possible being low, that should go away when the level is proper and the system is also bled correctly.  Solid antilock light means that the anti lock function is not working at all, when it blinks its indicating a problem.  That switch under the dash is most likely the culprit unless you have already calibrated it.  Once its all bled proper I would expect those lights go off, as you are getting 3 presses per charge from the pump.  Bleed it first before you start to worry.

UPDATE: I bled the brakes today until fresh, clean fluid came out at each caliper.  THE GOOD: After bleeding the brakes, I went out and drove it- all I can say is WOW the brakes have never worked this well!  They are UNBELIEVEABLY powerful and the car stops VERY quickly. THE BAD: Both my BRAKE light and my ANTILOCK light are on steady.  When I drove it, I took it on a short 50 foot gravel driveway to see how it would stop on loose surfaces, I found out my antilock brakes don't work!  The car just skids!  :laugh:  I got a kick outta it anyway lol. 
So, I'm thinkin that I maybe have a wheel speed sensor out, since antilock isn't working and both of my lights are on steady?  What do you guys think?
Anyway I'm happy that all of my brakes are now working and are more powerful than ever!  :icon_twisted:
Thanks everyone!

Quote from: R Dubya on December 17, 2006, 07:22:06 AM
no code reader is necessary.

How do I find out why the lights are on then?  I'm thinkin wheel speed sensor since my ABS isn't working.  But how do I find out what is wrong?

Nick, I have a steady BRAKE and Anti-lock light on all the time...along with LOW COOLANT, even though it's full...these lights are PITA's...I also have a driver's side wheel speed sensor that has been replaced 3 times by the previous owner, and it's out now; he says thats why my ANTI-LOCK light is always on...the BRAKE light, if I'm not mistaken, and correct me if I'm wrong, is just for the emergency brake...check and see if it's slightly pressed down.

I disconnected my Ebrake cable from my rear calipers.  (The Ebrake cable is stuck in the ebrake on position, so both rear wheels were locked up- that's why I disconnected it.)  Maybe that's why the BRAKE light is on huh?  But the antilock function of my brakes isn't working as posted above- what else could be wrong, and how do I find out what the brake codes are?
Thanks

You DO need a code reader for the ABS, i belive it has to be a special one too, go to a shop and see if anyone has a reader for old GM ABS brakes, lucklily my autoshop at school has one. If the abs isnt working, its not getting a wheel speed sensor reading, one of the selenoids arnt engauging correctly, or somthing of that nature. Push your foot firmly on the pedal, and turn the ignition to on, u hear the selenoids click, does the pedal drop really far? it shouldnt drop much at all.

do you have the switch calibrated?  I guess I assumed it would solve the issue once bled and working properly.  I guess its time to hook it up to a computer, I didn't mean to say you didn't need it.  If the antilock light is steady that means that the system is disabled, if it blinks it still works just an issue with pressure or something. 

Alright I guess I'll have to find someone with a code reader  :icon_rolleyes:  Sounds to me like a wheel speed sensor though.
Before I replaced the PMIII, the BRAKE light was on all the time, while the ANTILOCK light flashed (low accumulator charge), now it has a good PMIII with a new accumulator - both lights are on steady and the antilock function no longer works- it did work a month ago.  The car sat for a month before I put the new PMIII in it too.  Anyway my mission right now is to find someone with a code reader.
Thanks for your input, everyone.  ;)
Nick

This is kinda topic related/kinda not.  I need an anti-theft wheel locknut remover.  My TGP didn't come with one, and I imagine that I will have to take the wheels off soon if I do indeed have to replace my wheel speed sensor.  Does anybody have one around?
Thanks

They're not all the same. I would try going to the dealer and seeing if they can get a lug key matched from your VIN.. good luck with that though.