5 speed swap; need help 10/15

Started by stockgp, July 07, 2007, 07:45:00 PM

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stockgp

i have almost all the parts. (still need a turbo support bracket).  as soon as my hand is back in one piece, i'll be back at this bitch again.

the wrenching isn't a problem for me.  what i do need to know, is what i need to do to make the tgp run with a 5 speed.

for example:

is wiring the neutral safety switch so it's always in neutral good enough?

if not, do i need to send my pcm out to have it re-flashed, or does someone just need to repogram the memcal?

off on a bit of a tangent, does anyone know if someone sells a rebuild kit for the 282 that will withstand more power?  eventually, i want to rebuild the tgp motor.  i'm hoping for something like 250+ hp.  i odn't want to get a 284, given that they are so odd/expensive.  so, given that i have two 282s, and another on the way, i'd like to strengthen one.

back on topic, is there anything else i need to know to make the tgp 5 speed compatible?

jimmy

#1
 It definately was alot of work,so I hope you have alot of patients. Now I took it step at a time, fixing everything that did not look correct which took much longer than just swapping tranny's. First Not only do you have to wire the nuetral safety wires correctly but you also need to extend the wires for the speed sensor and also wire for the reverse lights. That'll take care of the wiring but you need to then drill your hole for the cables look and find that write up for it on this website, contact me if you can't find it.

TGPvsTIII

Good luck with your project first. It is worth it.
The turbo support bracket we made for Jimmys was made on and off the car. While the car was apart I made two flat plates one fitted for the two holes on the top of the trans that are not used and one for the crossover. After putting the crossover on I cut a piece of round stock and angled the ends to fit in the spot. I used some gorilla glue to hold it in place. After it dried I removed the bracket and took it to work to weld.

To bypass the N/S I am pretty sure you just tie the 2 heavy gauge wires together. We cut the N/S switch wires off the switch and made all the connections on that so that we didn't have to cut the harness. If you have a donor car I would suggest grabbing the clutch switch when you grab the pedals. If you have that its just extend those 2 heavy gauge wires to the switch.

It has been a few months since we did this but I think I remember the keyless entry also requires jumper at the N/S harness to keep working but I can't remember which ones. If you need this info let me know and I can take a look in Jimmys FSM. Also tape up all unused wires good. The wire that doesn't let your engine rev above 3k is there at the switch if it hits ground it woun't rev above 3 k. So that wire needs unconnected to anything to rev.

Are you planning to rebuild your trans? It is a bit of a pain to do. First off the parts for this trans are very expensive. Plus when we got Jimmys open we found quite a few other parts needed that do not come in the 500 dollar kit. (ours did have syncros) Some of these parts are still available from the dealer. The other problem with rebuilding these are the special tools needed just to take it apart and put it back together. (I hope this works) here is a picture of the stand needed to press the gear set out of the case then back into it. 
You also need a press. I think Jimmy spent about 400 bucks on tools to do this. I think it was worth it because the trans he got from the yard probibly would have worked but not lasted. It had some issues. Check out Jimmys pictures I think most tranny pictures are on the second page http://s138.photobucket.com/albums/q276/JimmyTGP/?start=0
Tim

TGPvsTIII

after reading this Jimmys post made me think of some more stuff. The reverse light switch on the 5sp has a plug on it grab the mating plug from the donors harness so that you can hook that up to your N/S wiring. You will still be able to unplug the switch if needed. That pigtail is still available from GM. We bought a new pigtail.
I also think I remember the speedo connector is differant then the auto pigtail so you will need that too when you extend the wires. I don't know if you know the speedo will be way off with the 5 spd. Kenny can help you out if you get one of his chips to fix that.
Jimmys donor car also did not have ABS so the 5sp axles didn't have the tone wheels on them. The ones on the auto axles will fit but are a royal pain to get back on. If you tap them off the old axles evenly they come off pretty easy. We heated them up pretty good and put the axles in my frig to get cold. And they were still hard to get back on. We nicked a few teeth and had to file them to clean them up. They seem to work fine he isn't getting an ABS light coming on.
You will also need to cut 2 holes through the fire wall. I think they are 1 inch and you also have to cut 2 layers of metal. We did the first layer from inside and the second from under the hood.
Tim

stockgp

the hole for the auto cable won't work?  is it just too small?

i have the entire harness from the donor car.  it was my old ste.  the only thing i forgot to take off of it was the clutch switch.  so i'll have all needed wiring an connectors. 

who is kenny and how much will it cost me to get a chip from him?

my ste had abs, so the axles had the teeth on them for the wss.  however, i'll be converting to vacuum brakes.  so i won't need any of that crap.

apparently, rebuildin the trans is now out of the question.  i don't have a press or any of the other specialty tools needed.  i've seen the rebuild kits on ebay go for around 200 bucks, but they don't include tools.

jimmy, what do you mean by "everything that did not look correct?"

i have alldata, so i'll have any wiring diagrams i'll need.

i think, if anyone is interested, i'll have three 282 trannys for sale soon.  i'm going to try to finance a 6 speed so i don't have to rebuild a 282.

TGPvsTIII

Quote from: stockgp on July 08, 2007, 12:28:17 PM
the hole for the auto cable won't work?  is it just too small?

i have the entire harness from the donor car.  it was my old ste.  the only thing i forgot to take off of it was the clutch switch.  so i'll have all needed wiring an connectors. 

who is kenny and how much will it cost me to get a chip from him?

my ste had abs, so the axles had the teeth on them for the wss.  however, i'll be converting to vacuum brakes.  so i won't need any of that crap.

apparently, rebuildin the trans is now out of the question.  i don't have a press or any of the other specialty tools needed.  i've seen the rebuild kits on ebay go for around 200 bucks, but they don't include tools.

jimmy, what do you mean by "everything that did not look correct?"

i have alldata, so i'll have any wiring diagrams i'll need.

i think, if anyone is interested, i'll have three 282 trannys for sale soon.  i'm going to try to finance a 6 speed so i don't have to rebuild a 282.
The shifter has 2 cables and they won't fit that 1 hole and I think the location was differant.

Kenny is the guy that runs this site TGPilot.

The rebuild kits are not too bad it the syncros that up the price. Also those kits don't have any of the needle bearings this trans has just the rollers.

What Jimmy meant was while we had the engine out we did a bunch of other things that were alot easiers to fix with the motor and trans out. When we did his we dropped the oil pan and changed the oil pump we also removed the exhaust manifolds so he could wrap them. We also replaced the metal heater line that runs along the firewall and down the passenger side fender well. We also rebushed the engine cradle and replace the front mount. There were other things too I can't remember right now.

Tim

TGPilot

There is a dimple in the floorboard on the passengers side that you need to hole saw out to run the 5-speed shift linkage. The Auto hole is way too far off to make it work. If I remember right the dimple is just under the top of the carpet as you peel it down on the upper left or lower left of the floor pan. You have to go through the floor board and then also through the firewall. Have a good hole saw and plenty of machineist lube handy to cut the hole.

I charge $400 for the TGP 5-speed chip. The power and driveability of this chip will blow you away!!

jimmy

     Hey kenny I do believe that the picture for that, is still on this website

stockgp

ok guys.  back at it again today.  i'm at the point where i need to cut the hole for the clutch master cylinder.

anyone have pics or tips for me?  i searched and found refs to www.brian89gp.com, but the site no longer exists.

bake82

I'm interested in this too as i am in the process of doing this too......

one tip is DO NOT cut the hole for the CMC TOO Big or you're SCREWED!  Take it slow. cut, test fit, cut test fit...cut test fit....etc etc...
Kyle


1988 Cutlass Supreme, White/Black Leather, 3.1 Turbo 5 spd, coming soon  95k miles

Invasion1

kyle (bake82) if you look at yours (my old car) you will see a custom bracket i made to keep that CMC in place on the firewall.

i have it bolted there where its not gonna pop out anymore.

for those who have everything ripped out doing the swap and are not changing the firewall plate to a 5-speed specific i HIGHLY reccomend making something like that to ensure the CMC doesn't pop out on ya.

i had mine pop out 3 times in a month before i got wise and fabbed up a fix

ok thats my W-body advice for 2007

stay tuned for another random tech post in 08  :laugh:

stockgp

invasion1, did you drill and install the anti-rotation screw, or just use this bracket?

bake82, any chance of pics of said bracket?

kenny?, what exactly do you do to the pcm?  what  are the gains over stock?

bake82

Quote from: Invasion1 on July 15, 2007, 08:23:12 PM
kyle (bake82) if you look at yours (my old car) you will see a custom bracket i made to keep that CMC in place on the firewall.

i have it bolted there where its not gonna pop out anymore.

for those who have everything ripped out doing the swap and are not changing the firewall plate to a 5-speed specific i HIGHLY reccomend making something like that to ensure the CMC doesn't pop out on ya.

i had mine pop out 3 times in a month before i got wise and fabbed up a fix

ok thats my W-body advice for 2007

stay tuned for another random tech post in 08  :laugh:

Nice!!!  good to know.  I will make sure to use it when I get to that point.  (it will be very shortly, hopefully within the next 2 weeks!!



Stockgp.  I will try to get a pic of said bracket, but I don't know how good they will turn out with it still in the car!!  I'll do my best tho!!
Kyle


1988 Cutlass Supreme, White/Black Leather, 3.1 Turbo 5 spd, coming soon  95k miles

jimmy

        I don't have any pics of mine but I hit it on the first shot. I also used a screw to lock it in place and it will never fall off, especially as tight as it is. So for those that are attempting this proceedure just find a dremel tool and start grinding away until you hit your mark. Good luck jimmy

GutlessSupreme

these are pics from turbosedan's swap:

http://www.turbosedan.com/cutlass/trans/

he's got some pics mixed in elsewhere I think so browse through the rest of it. I thought he had a decent pic of the clutch mc cutout, but apparently not of after he trimmed it. i don't either unfortunely. just go slow and keep test fitting. I might have a rough list of the wiring changes if you're doing it all correctly w/ the right switches and plugs.

-Tony
gtsdurango.net
'04 Dakota SLT Quad Cab V8 AWD/4x4 - current daily
'90 Turbo Grand Prix STE - Crane H260 Cam, Getrag 282 Swap, 1.6 Rockers, Homebrewn Mildly Ported/Polished Heads/Intakes, Intrax Front Lowering Springs, KYB GR2s, 34mm Sway Bar, CS FSTB, AWeb RSTB, ES Poly Sway Bar Bushings, Cooper Cobra 245 - I'm working on it...
'92 Gutless Supreme SL - Dead
'90 Turbo Grand Prix - RIP 6-15-05