So I am on the highway on the way to school today, cruisin at a nice 75 or so. I went to pass someone, stepped on it a bit, got up to about 85 as I was passing him, and stalled out. Popped it in neutral, started back up and kept goin. Didn't make a whole lot of sense to  me, so I just kept goin thinkin it was a fluke. Later on I get up to a little over 80 and it starts hesitating, almost feeling as if the govorner was kicking in, then at about 85 it stalls again.....
possible issues maybe fuel pump/filter/injectors, in that order, is what I am thinking. That seem like the right place to start troubleshooting?

Maybe check the aux battery post?

That looked good and was all tight.
More problems on the way home. It stalled a few more times, and I was getting a lot of sputtering, and what sounded like a backfire. It was lobing kind of like there was  vacuum problem maybe and did not want to idle for shit. It was all pretty random too, so hard to tell. I have a fuel filter layin around I bought a few years ago for my old 91 Prix that I never ended up replacing, so I am going to do that tomorrow and see if that helps any, cuz it's 90 out and I don't feel like messin with it at the moment.
Also I have no idea how long the car sat before I got it, but it also sat in my driveway for almost 4 months before I put it on the road, I did start it periodically and let it run a few min, it was damn near empty, so I put in some fuel treatment and filled it with super. It ran great all day yesterday, with some minor hesitation, I was thinking it might just be the computer learning, and there is some hard shifting, I gotta look into that a little bit. But right now my main concern is figuring out this stalling issue, so any help is greatly appreciated.
I am also going to get the engine scanned to see if it is putting out any codes, cuz the SES light did come on a couple times when I just had it idling.

no need to use a scan tool you  can pull the codes with a paperclip.  On the diagnostic connector underneath the drivers side of the dash you can take a paperclip, bend it in a U shape, and ground the two connections on the top right of the connector.  Do this with the key in the on position, but with the car off.  It will flash a code three times, I believe it's 13, so it will blink once, pause, then blink 3 times quickly.  It will repeat this 3 times.  Then it will flash error codes in the same way.  For example, it may Blink 3 times, pause, blink 3 times, which is a code 33.  It will also repeat 3 times. 

Sounds like you may have a clogged cat, but it could be host of problems.  I had to replace the ECM in my machine once when it was stalling at highway speeds, but it would almost be a guarantee it wouldn't start again.  Lay down on the ground next time it does it and see if the converter is glowing. 

ok, I will check that out, I do however have a kink in one of the pipes right before the muffler, but exhaust is flowing out through it rather smoothly, I am going to get that fixed this weekend. I doubt that it would cause that much restriction to cause these problems, but I will take the cat into consideration too, thanx.

Quote from: R Dubya on August 02, 2007, 12:12:01 PM
no need to use a scan tool you  can pull the codes with a paperclip.  On the diagnostic connector underneath the drivers side of the dash you can take a paperclip, bend it in a U shape, and ground the two connections on the top right of the connector.  Do this with the key in the on position, but with the car off.  It will flash a code three times, I believe it's 13, so it will blink once, pause, then blink 3 times quickly.  It will repeat this 3 times.  Then it will flash error codes in the same way.  For example, it may Blink 3 times, pause, blink 3 times, which is a code 33.  It will also repeat 3 times. 

Sounds like you may have a clogged cat, but it could be host of problems.  I had to replace the ECM in my machine once when it was stalling at highway speeds, but it would almost be a guarantee it wouldn't start again.  Lay down on the ground next time it does it and see if the converter is glowing. 

Actually the check code is code 12. :thumb:

And I do remember that, I did it on my old one with the paper clip, thanx for the reminder on that.

new problem, now it won't start, goin out to scan it now...  :icon_frown:
Ok, I got a code 45, I can't find my book, can someone look that code up for me please :)
also after the scan, started right up no problem...?????
I just sat here for 5 min before tryin to start it...

I believe that it oxygen sensor circuit rich exhaust.  Most likely you need to swap that sensor.  Do you have a known good spare lying around anywhere?  There are other potential causes for this, but swapping O2 sensors is the quickest way to diagnose if thats the problem.  Could be bad fuel injectors, massive vacuum leaks, MAP sensor failure..

unfortunatly I don't have any spares hangin around from the old car... I was also thinking map sensor, cuz I remember when my old one had some rough idling and such, I replaced the map and it was a lot better after that. I didn't have a chance to really check the lines as the motor was pretty hot, so I plan to do that tomorrow, but now it's drinking time, so I will update tomorrow when I learn something new... :)

ok, had the cat checked and it's good, had the kinks fixed in the pipes.... and it is still lagging really bad.... It won't go past 85 or so, and at WOT and even close to WOT, it is hesitating really bad, and just not wanting to accelerate. I don't know what the hell is going on, I don't know what I should do, I don't want to do stuff and just waste money. So now, I am thinking that it is all fuel related... I checked, and code 45 is Oxygen Sensor Circuit (Rich Exhaust Indicated) .... but would that cause the lag that I am getting??... would that cause the stalling... idk.. When it comes to all that electronic crap, I am basically clueless, I mean, I can basically replace any part that I would need to, but when it comes to diagnostics, I am absolutely clueless...lol

My TGP ran kinda like that when my injectors died.... I had 3 dead injectors and teh other 3 were prolly dirty.  The car would buck like crazy and want to die at anything over 1/2 throttle.  I replaced all 6 fuel injectors with new C302 injectors for a 5.0 Mustang and the car runs almost like new now.

ya, tomorrow I am doin the fuel filter, then in the after noon bringing it to my friends garage to run some diags on it and check the fuel pressure and such....

Oh and with the bad injectors, it would die almost every time I stopped.  If you have original injectors in your car, there is a good chance that they are bad.

X2! New injectors helped my TGP out quite a bit! I have the same injectors Nick is desribing. Ford Yellow Top C302 Injectors, for under $300 at the door. Beats stock, and yes they do fit right in.