You need the 3X00 guide plates. I believe they are numbered with "P6" and "P7"(4 of them will be P6's and the other two will be P7's) on them. The stock ones are "P3" and "P4" if I remember correctly. If that guy doesn't have any, I could probably get you some soon if you don't have a junkyard nearby. I wanna grab a few things sometime soon from the yards anyway.

Got a shipment of new parts today.  I bought an AC Delco replacement for every single sensor that is on this engine.  Also upper and lower intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, TB gasket, oil pan gaskets, new plugs, wire set, EGR filter, and fuel filter.  Still waiting for new battery cables and a new O2 sensor connector.  Can't believe I still have to buy more parts.. :laugh:

You do realize you are going to have to drop the frame to replace that pan gasket right?........I don't want you to get into it and realize that.  If you have an FSM check it out before you start.  Also please don't use the rtv they gave you with the valley gasket....that stuff has failed on me before.  Get a tube of blue or black permatex and use that instead, throw that stuff in the trash.

Ken

Thanks for the tips!  I was planning on dropping the subframe anyway to replace the subframe bolts and bushings, swaybar bushings, and power steering lines.

Quote from: TGP Nick on April 16, 2008, 10:05:13 AM
Thanks for the tips!  I was planning on dropping the subframe anyway to replace the subframe bolts and bushings, swaybar bushings, and power steering lines.

No problem, if you are replacing the front bar bushings let me make a few more suggestions.  If you live near or go to a junk yard get the 34mm front sway bar out of a cutlass convertible, z34 (I think) or GTP.  Also if buying new bushings get the thermoplastic ones from Moog at rockauto.com.  Get the frame bushings and the end link bushings.  Also if you get the 34mm bar from the yard make sure to get the frame reinforcement  that holds the bar in, you will see what I mean when you get it.  Most of the time if you find a TDC w-body in the yard the frame has been pulled for the engine and the bar is easy to get.  Thats how I got mine.  Oh and when replacing the end links to the bar they are hard to get the bolts out because of clearance to the CV boot.  A 13mm ratchet wrench is a must to get them out without removing the CV joint from the trans.  Hope this helps and good luck!

Ken

I've heard that the stock TGP bar is better though, because it is solid.  I think it is smaller than a 3.4 bar, but the 3.4 bars are hollow, kinda defeating the purpose of swapping in a different bar over the TGP's solid bar, which should be more rigid.  I could be completely wrong on this, just something I read on W-body.

Quote from: TGP Nick on April 16, 2008, 11:05:03 AM
I've heard that the stock TGP bar is better though, because it is solid.  I think it is smaller than a 3.4 bar, but the 3.4 bars are hollow, kinda defeating the purpose of swapping in a different bar over the TGP's solid bar, which should be more rigid.  I could be completely wrong on this, just something I read on W-body.

I know what your saying Nick and if I was looking at it for the first time I would think the same.  Being a mechanical engineer I have some knowledge that makes me think otherwise.  Basically just because it is hollow does not make it weaker (weaker meaning subject to more deflection, twist due to torsion under hard cornering) than the solid bar because when you do the math out as you get closer and closer to the center of the bar (neutral axis as it is called in engineering speak) the torsional deflection reduces which means the solid part of the bar is not contributing that much to the stiffness of the bar.  Thats why you can get away with a hollow bar because the larger outer diameter is really the larger portion of the bars ability to withstand greater torsional load and thus deflects less under equal loading.  It has to do with the polar moments of inertia.  Now I have not done the math out for a solid tgp bar versus a hollow 34 mm bar so I don't know for sure which is stiffer, but I know that 34 mm bar was a good deal larger in OD than my stock solid 88 SE bar which warrented the change in my mind without doing all the theory out on paper.  For you guys it might be different.  Just trying to help shed some light on this stuff, just because it is hollow does not necessarily mean it is weak it very well could be stronger and lighter.

In either case if you have not bought bushings yet those blue moog bushings are very nice and will help tighten up the front end a bit.  Have fun!

Ken

Quote from: cobracmdr on April 16, 2008, 12:46:45 PM

Quote from: TGP Nick on April 16, 2008, 11:05:03 AM
I've heard that the stock TGP bar is better though, because it is solid.  I think it is smaller than a 3.4 bar, but the 3.4 bars are hollow, kinda defeating the purpose of swapping in a different bar over the TGP's solid bar, which should be more rigid.  I could be completely wrong on this, just something I read on W-body.

I know what your saying Nick and if I was looking at it for the first time I would think the same.  Being a mechanical engineer I have some knowledge that makes me think otherwise.  Basically just because it is hollow does not make it weaker (weaker meaning subject to more deflection, twist due to torsion under hard cornering) than the solid bar because when you do the math out as you get closer and closer to the center of the bar (neutral axis as it is called in engineering speak) the torsional deflection reduces which means the solid part of the bar is not contributing that much to the stiffness of the bar.  Thats why you can get away with a hollow bar because the larger outer diameter is really the larger portion of the bars ability to withstand greater torsional load and thus deflects less under equal loading.  It has to do with the polar moments of inertia.  Now I have not done the math out for a solid tgp bar versus a hollow 34 mm bar so I don't know for sure which is stiffer, but I know that 34 mm bar was a good deal larger in OD than my stock solid 88 SE bar which warrented the change in my mind without doing all the theory out on paper.  For you guys it might be different.  Just trying to help shed some light on this stuff, just because it is hollow does not necessarily mean it is weak it very well could be stronger and lighter.

In either case if you have not bought bushings yet those blue moog bushings are very nice and will help tighten up the front end a bit.  Have fun!

Ken

english please?... lol

Quote from: cobracmdr on April 16, 2008, 05:22:22 AM
You do realize you are going to have to drop the frame to replace that pan gasket right?........I don't want you to get into it and realize that.  If you have an FSM check it out before you start.  Also please don't use the rtv they gave you with the valley gasket....that stuff has failed on me before.  Get a tube of blue or black permatex and use that instead, throw that stuff in the trash.

Ken

Funny you say that.. I opened that tube of RTV that came with the LIM gasket and it was completely solid.  I slit the tube down the side and pulled out a huge piece of solid rubber lol .  So that stuff is completely useless :laugh:

Quote from: mfewtrail on April 14, 2008, 10:18:33 PM
You need the 3X00 guide plates. I believe they are numbered with "P6" and "P7"(4 of them will be P6's and the other two will be P7's) on them. The stock ones are "P3" and "P4" if I remember correctly. If that guy doesn't have any, I could probably get you some soon if you don't have a junkyard nearby. I wanna grab a few things sometime soon from the yards anyway.

I sent you a PM, Matt.

Quote from: mfewtrail on April 14, 2008, 09:39:17 PM

Quote from: TGP Nick on April 14, 2008, 09:33:06 PM
There is probably 1/8" of the bolt sticking out, so I'm going to try to grab it with a vice grips and unscrew it like that.  I was just curious if the water pump housing was easy to remove, because mine was kinda dirty and I wanted to take it off to clean it.  I guess I'm too anal about things being clean :laugh:

Spray the shit out of the timing cover with a foaming degreaser a few times and then hose it off. It'll take off almost every bit of grease, etc. I'll take some before/after pictures of my degreasing. My red TGP engine is nastyyyyyyyyy from valve cover leaks over the years.

I agree, I used foaming degreaser on the turbo intake pipes cuz of my turbo oil seal leaking and they were perfectly clean. that stuff eats the bad grime off real well  :icon_mrgreen:

UPDATE

Ok so I got my 1.6 rockers and guide plates today (courtesy Matt F. Thanks!) and started work on the TGP again today. 
I put the 1.6 rockers in my bucket of Berryman's Chem dip and that seems to have cleaned them very well.
I also removed my stock rockers and pushrods.  Some of the lifters were a bit sticky, but everything looked good in there.

I purchased a tube of "GM Engine Sealant" part number 88861417 from my local GM dealer and the parts manager said he strongly recommends using it for the intakes on our cars.  Anyone here used it before?  I'd imagine its good stuff, since it was likely used when the cars were built in the factory.

I have another question- would it hurt anything if I soaked my pushrods and lifters in my Berryman's Chem Dip?  They are a bit gummed up and I would like to clean them up. 

Also, just out of curiosity, what would be involved if I decided to pull my heads off at this point?  Pretty simple?  Just curious.

Thanks

Upon closer inspection, my lifters ALL have flat spots along the sides.. on each lifter, there is one heavy flat spot, and some of them have a very light flat spot to them.. I noticed that a few of the lifters were very hard to pull from the engine, while most of them just popped out.  Does this mean that my lifters are bad, or are they supposed to have a flat spot on them?

Being that I'm this far along, with all the intakes and valvetrain pulled off, how hard would it be to pull the heads at this point?  What else would I have to do to get them off?  I'm debating whether or not I should pull the heads since I have it torn down this far.  I've noticed also that compared to engines I've worked on in the past, this engine hasn't been very difficult to work with.. actually its been pretty nice! :icon_cool:

Update

Car is back together now, I am just waiting for my alternator to get redone at the local alt shop.. it was going, so I figured I will fix it now.

I have a question, when I put my new lifters in, I just soaked them in oil and oiled up the bores where the pushrods sit in the block really well, and put it together like that.  Someone on W-body said I should have put assembly lube on the lifters instead, and since I didn't, he thinks I should tear the thing down again and lube the lifters up with assembly lube.  Is this really necessary?  Or will it be fine with oil on them? 

Any help is appreciated, I would like to have it running in the next few days when I get my alternator back.

Thanks!

I have installed a set without the lube... but the lifter were kind of new at the time, not 100% new.  They were taken out shortly after install (at that time lube was used) , but the second time around they were just soaked in some rotella.  Still going strong in that engine.