turbo rebuild - can't get it to come apart!!!

Started by Bullet, April 18, 2008, 05:33:06 PM

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Bullet

Quote from: cobracmdr on April 22, 2008, 07:23:45 PM
Quote from: pontiac6ksteawd on April 22, 2008, 03:55:07 PM
Wow, that was a fast turn around, from turbo is seized, to, its spools so much better now.. LOL..

As long as the clearances are where they should be and you maintained whatever balance was between the turbine and the compressor wheel then you should be ok.  So did you replace the radial bearings and thrust plate and bearing?  You should really have held that blade from spinning for a few minutes until the oil came up before letting it free wheel at idle but I'm sure you did not harm anything.......  Just make sure your change the oil if you have not already to go with the new turbo.  Also keep an eye on the shaft clearance a few hundred miles down the road and make sure it is not hitting the housing..........like mine did!


it sounds like you just said I should've stuck someting into the turbo to keep it from spinning...lol
everything that was in the turbo has been taken out and replaced, that means the bearings, U-pins, thrust plat, and thrust bearing.
only thing old about the inside of the turbo is the original turbine shaft and blades.
1988 Fiero Base Coupe (The Show Car)
1992 Cameleon Firebird 305 T-Top 50k original miles

Quote from Shifter23 - "Money Talks, Bullshit Walks"

cobracmdr

You should be good to go then  :icon_mrgreen:   Any exhaust leaks?  Make sure they are fixed as the head loss in the pipe due to an exhaust leak has a profound effect on the turbo response and peak boost.  Just a tip and good luck with the sale!

Ken

1989 Turbo Grand Prix - missed very much!!!!
2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 M6 12.01 @117 mph - Inferno Orange Metallic, long tubes, x pipe, Cat back, all 3" pipe 321 SS, vararam intake, LC-1, diy tune
01 Grand Prix GTP - 3.4 pulley, plog, k&n drop in, u-bend & resonator delete, tuned
03 Suzuki SV650N - zx10 shock, racetech springs/emulators, streetfighter

Bullet

thanks!
yeah the rear manifold needs to be tighten back down, and the x-over leaks a little bit but not really much. I know all about the padding under the head sheilding that makes the leak(s) quiter, but there's almost no exhaust coming out from under the sheilding. only from the back side of the motor. urgo the rear mani.
Price is lowered to $1500 with everything working
1988 Fiero Base Coupe (The Show Car)
1992 Cameleon Firebird 305 T-Top 50k original miles

Quote from Shifter23 - "Money Talks, Bullshit Walks"