I finally installed the prior unit yesterday.  The GM one was easy to get out, but when I tried to tighten the prior one with a strap wrench, I was unsuccessful.  You need a 1 inch wrench and can get to the back of the accum where the nut is, if you go in from the passenger side.  Brakes still feel a little squishy but the abs and brake lights no longer come on.  So it probably needs a better bleed.  I used the engine tilter I rented from pep boys, and it worked out good.  It made it so much easier to tilt although it won't go completely all the way.  I might just keep it it's just $18.

Quote from: no1kickerThe GM one was easy to get out, but when I tried to tighten the prior one with a strap wrench, I was unsuccessful.   I used the engine tilter I rented from pep boys, and it worked out good.  It made it so much easier to tilt although it won't go completely all the way.  I might just keep it it's just $18.

The GM one took me about 10 minutes to change. I even took a break.  The engine tilter I have was a pry bar and a buddy, cost me a beer.

I never had to bleed my system, works like a champ.

Gregg, just a thought, since the "seal" for the accum is the O-Ring, it does not have to be real tight like to hold the 2,000 psi+ it runs, the O-Ring does that part mainly with the threads of the accum just holding things in place.  Did you do the brake bleed such as wham the brake pedal 5 times, cycle the key till the pump stops running, wham the pedal 5 times and key on....several times?  If you do this the bubbles of air will be dislodged free, basically the way to "Bleed" after an accum swap, but I like to also let the system set and do this again later as the fluid gets areated with bubbles easy.

Better luck now 8)

Jeff M