Repleaced oil return line today...

[dbtk2]

I just got done replacing my oil return line.  I haven't even started the car up yet (probably should check for leaks huh), but when I took the old line off the thing looked brand new on the inside, looked identical to the new one.  I am 99.999% sure this new line is not going to fix any problems.  So my turbo probably needs a rebuild....darn...now I'm gonna have to get that stupid GT2871R.... :twisted:

Shawn

[twinturbosedan]

i need to check my return line too.  lately my car starts smoking if it sits idleing for more than a few minutes.  that's the only time it will smoke.

[dbtk2]

Mine smokes like a mofo as soon as it gets warmed up.  Then it smokes pretty much everytime the engine is at idle speed with no load after that.  (if I bring the revs up to like 1k at stoplights its fine, at 800rpm it smokes like crazy)  If I coast down from 55 to 35 it will leave a cloud of smoke.  It runs really well though, spools quick, and makes boost just fine.  

I drove it a little bit since I put the line on and the damn thing still smokes like crazy.  It doesn't seem to be getting any better (I expected it to smoke a little to clean out the oil and crap in there, but its still smoking A LOT).  God damn I don't really have the $ for a turbo but I've really wanted to upgrade anyways...  SHIT SHIT SHIT, the money I've been saving is supposed to be for a 5 speed swap!!!

It actually seems to be a lot quicker now that I replaced the line.  Maybe the turbo to I/C pipe wasn't tightened all the way before or something because thats the only thing I can think.  I made sure that I tightened the shit out of it when I put it back on so maybe it was leaking boost...

Shawn

[flybynite]

Ive been lookin arround for a way to upgrade my turbo without spending a whole lot of MONEY and aimed at the DIYer.I have found that the some(depending on year model) eclipse/talon turbocharged cars use a t-25/28 with a different exaust housing.I have noticed that several web sites offer a big t-25/28 for the eclipse/talon for a nice lumpsum of money.After a whole lot of searches I found that the big t-25/28 uses a 16g compressior wheel off of a t04.You half to sleeve the larger wheel so that it will fit on the exaust turbine shaft of the t-25/28.Next you can buy a housing  for the larger wheel or you can modify your own(if you know of a good machine shop).I also read that the stock t-25 is good for about 250hp and with the larger wheel it was said to be good for 400hp.Sad thing is that the lil t-25 is already wearing out my auto.I am already lookin for a t-25/28 center section for this project.Without the cost of the turbo(and a new tranny) I'm lookin to have rite at 300$ in parts.Later

[z284pwr]

Ive been lookin arround for a way to upgrade my turbo without spending a whole lot of MONEY and aimed at the DIYer.I have found that the some(depending on year model) eclipse/talon turbocharged cars use a t-25/28 with a different exaust housing.I have noticed that several web sites offer a big t-25/28 for the eclipse/talon for a nice lumpsum of money.After a whole lot of searches I found that the big t-25/28 uses a 16g compressior wheel off of a t04.You half to sleeve the larger wheel so that it will fit on the exaust turbine shaft of the t-25/28.Next you can buy a housing  for the larger wheel or you can modify your own(if you know of a good machine shop).I also read that the stock t-25 is good for about 250hp and with the larger wheel it was said to be good for 400hp.Sad thing is that the lil t-25 is already wearing out my auto.I am already lookin for a t-25/28 center section for this project.Without the cost of the turbo(and a new tranny) I'm lookin to have rite at 300$ in parts.Later

I'm assuming you plan on making a new custom downpipe as well since that T-25 has a different turbine exhaust outlet bolt pattern than the TGP, the TGP has one of those awesome great basically "one of a kind" style bolt pattern, hence one reason why turbo upgrades aren't very popular around here :wink:

At $300 you are nearing halfway towards a NEW turbo that will bolt right in.

[flybynite]

If I understand what I,m reading correctly all I half to do is replace my stock compressior wheel with the larger one and machine the the stock compressior houseing(or buy new one) to accept the larger wheel.Basically It will look like the stock t-25 but on the inside it will have the larger compressior wheel.You can also go to the next level and bore out the stock t-25 exaust houseing and use a larger exaust turbine wheel and shaft.This will increase hp levels to 450 plus.The reason I,m lookin a used TGP center section is because I dont wont to take apart the car and let it sit in the way(very limited with space here)My goal is to buy a used TGP center section,rebuild it with new parts,larger wheel and install on car when I,m ready.Yes a new turbo is the way to go if ur loooaaaded or never rebuilt one.The ones I looked at were in the $800 range.Later

[GangstGP]

The stock t-25 I believe is good for more than 250 HP, but it is not as good quality of boost. meaning you could up the psi but it is not designed for high psi. we want quick spool torque for rally racing. We should all get a group buy going through Garrett for some T-25s with ball bearings if possible. and another one for the future when someone gets a reliable system completed for higher boost which will be pretty involved.but for now we should go with stock for numbers. everyone knows that when dealing with manufacturers like that, it has to do with quantity.

[twinturbosedan]

yeah i think the stock T25 is good for at least 250hp, at least at the crank.  i'm not sure if anyone has reached 250whp with a stock turbo or not, but i'm betting it could be done ecspecially with a good FMIC.

[z284pwr]

yeah i think the stock T25 is good for at least 250hp, at least at the crank.  i'm not sure if anyone has reached 250whp with a stock turbo or not, but i'm betting it could be done ecspecially with a good FMIC.

The advantages a FMIC has doesn't really matter on a dyno, the big fans only do so much to simulate the air that an actual car would have on the FMIC.  In the "dyno" world, they are going to suffer heat soak just like a normal intercooler, that is the problem there. :cry:

Just to bad there is no "easy" way of getting lines run to a FMIC without removing stuff, they one we have laying in the garage just collecting dust could be of some use if we could get lines to it

[twinturbosedan]

yeah i think the stock T25 is good for at least 250hp, at least at the crank.  i'm not sure if anyone has reached 250whp with a stock turbo or not, but i'm betting it could be done ecspecially with a good FMIC.

The advantages a FMIC has doesn't really matter on a dyno, the big fans only do so much to simulate the air that an actual car would have on the FMIC.  In the "dyno" world, they are going to suffer heat soak just like a normal intercooler, that is the problem there. :cry:

Just to bad there is no "easy" way of getting lines run to a FMIC without removing stuff, they one we have laying in the garage just collecting dust could be of some use if we could get lines to it

i would have to disagree.  my brother took his Omni GLH to the dyno and it has a BIG NPR FMIC.  while the pre intercooler pipe was obviously HOT, the pipe between the intercooler and TB was cool to the touch!  that is one big ass intercooler though:

http://www.turbosedan.com/omni/DSC01319.JPG

although after a hard WOT run on the highway the post-IC pipe is COLD to the touch :lol:

my brother also had his Shelby Lancer at the dyno with a stock intercooler (stock Turbo Dodge intercooler is almost identical to a TGP intercooler).  the post-IC pipe was very very warm after the dyno run....so much so that it was hard to hold onto the pipe.

[dbtk2]

If someone can dyno 250whp with a stock T25 it will be pretty hard to do.  I'm going to dyno my STE as it is right now in the spring when the MI gp club has their dyno day.  It should be in the 230whp range at least I hope, but we'll see.  If I get injectors by then then I'm sure it will be in that range.  My turbo is really maxed out though.  I get full boost at stupid low rpms and it starts to fall on its face in the 5krpm range.  

We'll see what I dyno in the spring (I believe I have the most done with the stock turbo of anyone on here...although I could be wrong???) but I don't think it will be near 250whp.  If I had a 5 speed it might be close though.  But I need to get injectors so I can run more than the ~9-9.5psi I'm running right now.  At 12-13psi I think it can be done with my setup.  Based on the torque numbers everyone else has been getting and comparing the torque my car has now to what it had when it had similar mods to what you guys are running, I'm thinking I'll put out some pretty large torque numbers as well.  We'll see.  

But as soon as I make a baseline dyno pull and a baseline 1/4 mile, I'm going to install a GT2871R and see what I can do with that.  I'm hoping to get in the 12's by the end of the year, although I don't know how realisitic that is, its my goal.

Shawn

[GutlessSupreme]

Just to bad there is no "easy" way of getting lines run to a FMIC without removing stuff, they one we have laying in the garage just collecting dust could be of some use if we could get lines to it

We need to get to work on finding a narrower A/C condenser. It kills me to see such a perfect spot to run pipes through next to the radiator be block by some small tubing. (I have NO plans to ditch my A/C, so that's not an option for me).

It wouldn't be that hard to bend some tubing to match up lines from a new condenser to the stock A/C lines.

[z284pwr]

Just to bad there is no "easy" way of getting lines run to a FMIC without removing stuff, they one we have laying in the garage just collecting dust could be of some use if we could get lines to it

We need to get to work on finding a narrower A/C condenser. It kills me to see such a perfect spot to run pipes through next to the radiator be block by some small tubing. (I have NO plans to ditch my A/C, so that's not an option for me).

It wouldn't be that hard to bend some tubing to match up lines from a new condenser to the stock A/C lines.

Yes same here, AC is not going anywhere.  The next question is finding a car that would actually have an AC condensor that short, since most cars have the condensor the entire length of the car.  Welding and fittings definitely wouldn't be a problem there.  However, the 2nd intercooler fan would also have to go away or be moved, which kinda sucks...

If someone can dyno 250whp with a stock T25 it will be pretty hard to do. I'm going to dyno my STE as it is right now in the spring when the MI gp club has their dyno day. It should be in the 230whp range at least I hope, but we'll see. If I get injectors by then then I'm sure it will be in that range. My turbo is really maxed out though. I get full boost at stupid low rpms and it starts to fall on its face in the 5krpm range.

We'll see what I dyno in the spring (I believe I have the most done with the stock turbo of anyone on here...although I could be wrong???) but I don't think it will be near 250whp. If I had a 5 speed it might be close though. But I need to get injectors so I can run more than the ~9-9.5psi I'm running right now. At 12-13psi I think it can be done with my setup. Based on the torque numbers everyone else has been getting and comparing the torque my car has now to what it had when it had similar mods to what you guys are running, I'm thinking I'll put out some pretty large torque numbers as well. We'll see.

But as soon as I make a baseline dyno pull and a baseline 1/4 mile, I'm going to install a GT2871R and see what I can do with that. I'm hoping to get in the 12's by the end of the year, although I don't know how realisitic that is, its my goal.

Shawn

Those numbers sound doable, if these guys are pulling 210 with a 5spd, I think your cam, heads, and intake make up for the weight added, just hope the drivetrain loss isn't to much.  The power range definitely sounds right, my cam prevents low end but it the dying past 5k is somewhat true, the engine starts outflowing the turbo then.  However, if you do a 5spd swap, you will probably just run into the same problems the 5spd guys are having, traction in 1st and 2nd gear is non-existant, so really the weight savings from a 5spd goes out the window.  You have to get the power to the ground to go anywhere :wink: Especially with your low end torque.
I don't see the 12s being reached without slicks, which brings in the next problem, as posted in the other thread, "Black Sunshine" let the track have all his trans parts :shock: , which will probably be the same problem you end up with if you don't have the trans beefed up if you are running slicks.

[dbtk2]

Those numbers sound doable, if these guys are pulling 210 with a 5spd, I think your cam, heads, and intake make up for the weight added, just hope the drivetrain loss isn't to much.  The power range definitely sounds right, my cam prevents low end but it the dying past 5k is somewhat true, the engine starts outflowing the turbo then.  However, if you do a 5spd swap, you will probably just run into the same problems the 5spd guys are having, traction in 1st and 2nd gear is non-existant, so really the weight savings from a 5spd goes out the window.  You have to get the power to the ground to go anywhere :wink: Especially with your low end torque.
I don't see the 12s being reached without slicks, which brings in the next problem, as posted in the other thread, "Black Sunshine" let the track have all his trans parts :shock: , which will probably be the same problem you end up with if you don't have the trans beefed up if you are running slicks.

I believe Kenny is pulling in the 220-230whp range with his 5 speed car, and IIRC his AUTO STE pulled like 221.  So I think 250 is doable I just don't know if my setup is capable of it or not.  But, weight is not of a big concern to me.  The extra 100lbs. my trans weighs is only a tenth in the 1/4.  There are lots of other things I can do to gain a tenth.  But I would like to put a 282 from a Beretta or something like that like Josh is talking about because then the gears will be halfway useful.  Then if I get some drag radials and launch mildly the trans shouldn't blow to pieces.  If it does, I'll have to figure out what to do to keep it together.

Shawn

[GangstGP]

fmic=gay compared to smic.