5 speed swap thread

[killinprixs]

thanks Ken, the cables are unhooked on both ends, the transmissions is home.  And yes the break is part of the shifter.  Also the crack is on the intermediate shaft mount i meant.  The axles on the car were crap and fell apart when i pulled on them.  Might go back in a few minutes even tho its raining.... Also going to call local parts store  to see if i can find 5 speed axles with abs.

[cobracmdr]

thanks Ken, the cables are unhooked on both ends, the transmissions is home.  And yes the break is part of the shifter.  Also the crack is on the intermediate shaft mount i meant.  The axles on the car were crap and fell apart when i pulled on them.  Might go back in a few minutes even tho its raining.... Also going to call local parts store  to see if i can find 5 speed axles with abs.

I think the ones out of a getrag 284 will work and have the encoder wheel on them.  I don't see why they would be different the 282 and 284 cases are identical I think......same with the intermediate shaft so I don't see why the axles would be different lengths.  The only thing that MIGHT be different is the output shaft spline count on the 284 might have more splines but I doubt it, I don't think GM would make a special axle for that trasmission.  I would do a pn cross reference on rockauto.com between say a 92 GPSE twin cam 5 speed and an 88 GPSE 5 speed and see if the axles are the same PN.  That will tell you for sure.  Good luck!

Ken

[killinprixs]

Update:  Got brand new axles , clutch and flywheel.   The motor and trans will be out of the car when i attempt to cut holes for the slave /CMC assembly and the shift cables.    Does anyone know if its possible to make the CMC cut with the brake booster still in the car? Should i plan on cutting from the inside or engine bay side?  Also i remember seeing a picture on here on cutting the floor for the cables... did a search but couldnt find it.  any help appreciated! Ike

[flybynite]

Update:  Got brand new axles , clutch and flywheel.   The motor and trans will be out of the car when i attempt to cut holes for the slave /CMC assembly and the shift cables.    Does anyone know if its possible to make the CMC cut with the brake booster still in the car? Should i plan on cutting from the inside or engine bay side?  Also i remember seeing a picture on here on cutting the floor for the cables... did a search but couldnt find it.  any help appreciated! Ike

Ike
I will be in NY this weekend let me know if U need any help...  later dude...

[cobracmdr]

IKE I think you will have better luck cutting the cmc from the engine bay side........it will be hard with the brake master cylinder or booster in the way.......did you get the firewall plate from the donner car?  If not you might want to get that fire wall plate it will save you some hassle of cutting everything.......

Damn straight Adam!  Yeah Ike if you need a hand we can haul up there for a few......you are only like 2 hours away......Just not Saturday that is dyno day for me :)

Ken

[killinprixs]

Hells yea feel free to stop down, at least youll know where im at...  when i get something done we should get a regular meetup going, bring meltboy....  anyone else?  There were about 13 mustangs and about 20 GTOs at the track last night, figure we could run the TGPs one of these nights and people will be like WTF is going on... lol

[cobracmdr]

Which track Lebanon Valley?  Have not been up there since college :icon_eek: I would love to run my fobra up there.......

[bake82]

Does anyone know if its possible to make the CMC cut with the brake booster still in the car? Should i plan on cutting from the inside or engine bay side?  Also i remember seeing a picture on here on cutting the floor for the cables... did a search but couldnt find it.  any help appreciated! Ike

Ike:

I've been meaning to help you out, but I've been busy! I'll answer your q's!
In my 88 Cutlass non PM3 I was able to cut out the clutch master hole from INSIDE the engine bay.  Only way to tell if you need to take out the PM3 to do it, is by trying to cut the hole with it in. If you don't have enough room, got to remove it!  If you can access from inside the car, I give you MAJOR props!  TIP: Do not go crazy while cutting. go VERY slow and test fit the master every cut you make. you don't want to make it to big! it's a pain in the ass to do so.


To cut the clutch cable holes, you need to go through 2 holes just to the right of the floor hump.  It's EASY to go through.  there should actually be an indent in the floor where you need to cut.  The floor board you need to drill out with a hole saw, or drill a big hole in it and get a die grinder bit into it to make it big enough for the gromnet to fit in.  Once you are through the floor board, the engine firewall just punches out easily.  It's as if they made them all the same ready to punch out. IIRC it's already sort of pre-cut but still in there.  But it certainly punches out easily!

Any more q's let me know.  I did it last summer and still remember pretty much everything!

[killinprixs]

Thanks a lot for the help Bake, im gonna take a picture under the dash, it looks like theres a factory punch out for the CM... Once i take the engine out , ill remove all the plastic covers on the engine bay side and see if the hole actually goes through.  If i remember correctly looking at the junkyard doner car, the CM is ONE layer of sheetmetal and the Cables go through 2 layers. Again, i appreciate the tips!  Ike

Ken, you should bring it out, theres some pretty cool stuff up there.  a dude ran a snowmobile and went a low 12 i think.... thing was LOUD.

[bake82]

Ike,

CMC goes through 1 layer definetly!  with my die grinder it went prety quick.  Cables go through 2. 


There is already a hole where the CMC goes into, but it's round, and the CMC is a D-shape so you need to make it into a D for it to fit correctly.


For the cables, you reminded me of something!  the actual car firewall is easy like I mentioned above.  However the black skirting or protective covering that goes between the motor and firewall, you need to make a hole in that for the cables to go through.  I'm sure if you looked at Ken's car you'd see exactly how they are supposed to route no problem. But you do need to get through that 3rd layer and make your own custom hole, rather than having it punched out like the floor boards.

[cobracmdr]

Yeah my parts car and my car have that stupid skirt.........unless you have a 89 I don't think the 90s have that thing.........what a pain.  Just drop the subframe and remove that skirt while you have the motor out.  I hate that thing

Ken

[killinprixs]

Going to be making the cut for the cables tomorrow.  removed a bunch of unnecessary crap today.  I remember on this forum someone , maybe TGPilot or someone had a picture of the floorboard with an X where to cut... I cant find it maybe its gone...  The cutting isnt going to be hard, i just need to do it in the right spot LOL.  once i get this cut done, the car should be back together by mid next week.

[killinprixs]

Thanks for the PM Ken,  got rained out today which sucks...  I did notice something while i was draggin my 4t60 to the junk pile on my front lawn,  i cleaned off a sticker that says GM SRTA Service replacement transmission assembly... That obviously means its not original...  wonder if it was TGP specific or had the 3.33 dif...  I was going to take the diff and junk the trans but if its not even a 3.33 id rather not.  BTW i post a lot cause i get bored and this forum is cool as hell , just slow .  maybe ill get some pics of the mess in front of my house. LOL

[cobracmdr]

Lol my garage is a junk pile behind my cobra.........meh tons of tgp stuff I need to go through and see what I need and what I don't. 

Ken

[killinprixs]

wow what a pain in the balls... need lower motor mount and pressure plate bolts and it going back in.  i have to get them from the dealer cause the advanced auto bolts are loose and crappy...  hear ya man,  i have tons of tgp parts i dont even know why...