Brake light switch/ defect Help with choosing one to buy.

Started by Cookies, January 20, 2005, 06:26:23 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Cookies

Theres a problem with the brake light switch i was told at a shop that keeps the brake lights either on or not coming on at all. I know most of you already know this. Anyways i think i found the same switches online, just wanted to make sure these are the right ones.

http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectParts.asp?SourceArea=&PartType=422&PTSet=A&Description=Switches&SourcePage=PartTypes&SearchFor=Stoplight+Switch

Also has anyone changed these, if so where is it located and how hard is it to fix? Thanks!

R Dubya

No that first one is not the brake switch.. that looks to me more like the cruise cutoff.  The brake light switch is much larger than that, and it has an arm that moves with the pedal and opens and closes the brake light circuit.  Call your local dealer and ask them about a recall on that switch, I know there was one available, you might be able to get it done for free.
Ryan Warren
'89 TGP
It doesn't run anymore.

GutlessSupreme

Quote from: RW89TGPNo that first one is not the brake switch.. that looks to me more like the cruise cutoff.  The brake light switch is much larger than that, and it has an arm that moves with the pedal and opens and closes the brake light circuit.  Call your local dealer and ask them about a recall on that switch, I know there was one available, you might be able to get it done for free.


Not sure if you may be getting different results on the link for whatever reason.. but the three that I'm getting are definetly all brake switches.

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=GPS&MfrPartNumber=SLS140&PartType=422&PTSet=A

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=ACD&MfrPartNumber=D870A&PartType=422&PTSet=A

http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=NIE&MfrPartNumber=SL31501&PartType=422&PTSet=A

just be aware, there are two different ones: one with and one without the cruise cutoff plug. The second one I listed says "w/Cruise" so I assume that's the right one.

QuoteAlso has anyone changed these, if so where is it located and how hard is it to fix? Thanks!

Yes.
Attached to the upper part of the brake pedal, above the rubber boot at the bottom of the steering column.
It's a bitch and three quarters.

http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/brakeswitch.jpg
http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/brakeswitch2.jpg
http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/brakeswitch3.jpg
-Tony
gtsdurango.net
'04 Dakota SLT Quad Cab V8 AWD/4x4 - current daily
'90 Turbo Grand Prix STE - Crane H260 Cam, Getrag 282 Swap, 1.6 Rockers, Homebrewn Mildly Ported/Polished Heads/Intakes, Intrax Front Lowering Springs, KYB GR2s, 34mm Sway Bar, CS FSTB, AWeb RSTB, ES Poly Sway Bar Bushings, Cooper Cobra 245 - I'm working on it...
'92 Gutless Supreme SL - Dead
'90 Turbo Grand Prix - RIP 6-15-05

R Dubya

I don't know why but I am getting a small grey module from his link, the three that you posted are easily recognizeable as brake switches.  That is strange.  That pedal switch is a whore to do, can be very frustrating.  No no, extremely frustrating.  Good luck with it.
Ryan Warren
'89 TGP
It doesn't run anymore.

GutlessSupreme

Quote from: RW89TGPThat pedal switch is a whore to do, can be very frustrating.  No no, extremely frustrating.

Yeah. Basically, it'll make you want to throw numerous large tools towards the back of the car, because you've had your head shoved under the dash for four hours while your back is at an impossible angle off the edge of the driver's seat as you spend the time trying to figure out how the hell you messed up the install the first seven times, and it's only 38 degrees outside and rapidly getting darker and colder.

I wouldn't have a problem with doing one again, at this point, since I literally know the damn switch inside and out, but for what it's worth.. take it to the shop this one time.

Quote from: RW89TGPGood luck with it.

And Godspeed.
-Tony
gtsdurango.net
'04 Dakota SLT Quad Cab V8 AWD/4x4 - current daily
'90 Turbo Grand Prix STE - Crane H260 Cam, Getrag 282 Swap, 1.6 Rockers, Homebrewn Mildly Ported/Polished Heads/Intakes, Intrax Front Lowering Springs, KYB GR2s, 34mm Sway Bar, CS FSTB, AWeb RSTB, ES Poly Sway Bar Bushings, Cooper Cobra 245 - I'm working on it...
'92 Gutless Supreme SL - Dead
'90 Turbo Grand Prix - RIP 6-15-05

Cookies

Hehe,    Thanks for all the input. I think i will just buy it and take it into the shop. The dude at the shop i went to before said he would give me the switch and install it for like 150$. I laughed and said $150 for that little plastic thing.

So i suppose if i buy it and take it somewhere the most i will be charged is like 50 bucks hopefully. Whats labor cost nowadays?  Thanks alot guys! and thanks for the pics!

PS.... Would a new brakeswitch help at all with the voltage acting all weird in the car when the brake is applied? (Such as dimming lights)

GutlessSupreme

$150 is too much. Jeff had had a new one installed before I got it and they charged him $70 total. Still a little high.. but ya know how labor is.


The voltage drop is something else.. battery may be getting old or alternator may be going.
-Tony
gtsdurango.net
'04 Dakota SLT Quad Cab V8 AWD/4x4 - current daily
'90 Turbo Grand Prix STE - Crane H260 Cam, Getrag 282 Swap, 1.6 Rockers, Homebrewn Mildly Ported/Polished Heads/Intakes, Intrax Front Lowering Springs, KYB GR2s, 34mm Sway Bar, CS FSTB, AWeb RSTB, ES Poly Sway Bar Bushings, Cooper Cobra 245 - I'm working on it...
'92 Gutless Supreme SL - Dead
'90 Turbo Grand Prix - RIP 6-15-05

R Dubya

That could be a problem with one of the relays on the PMIII also.. I've heard of those things drawing too much voltage.  But yes $150 is too much despite the frustration.  Once you see how it goes in it may take you a while to make it work, but you have to reset the switch once its installed.  It's done by pushing the pedal down and then pulling on the metal clip on the back of the switch.  It works like a zip tie does, holding the pedal forward to keep the lights off.
Ryan Warren
'89 TGP
It doesn't run anymore.

idbeast

I've had and seen where the PMIII does not push the rod between the brake pedal and the PMIII all the way back out causing the brake lights to stay on.
Jim W     AKA  Idbeast
04 Supercharged Nissan Frontier Crew Cab 4X4 in sandstone (Light Gold)!!!
Red 89 TGP (14.95 1/4 mile) Not any more...... coming with surprises in the very near future, Black 90 TGP (14.41 1/4 mile), White 90 Turbo STE (15.06 1/4 mile), and now my 2nd White 90 Turbo STE 89 Dodge Shadow ES Turbo

GutlessSupreme

Quote from: idbeastI've had and seen where the PMIII does not push the rod between the brake pedal and the PMIII all the way back out causing the brake lights to stay on.

That's probably the case then, it seems like it's pretty common.

You probably don't even actually need a new switch, just need to adjust the one that's in there. See the pics I posted for a half-way decent description, if you want to just try that. I'll fill in any blanks, just ask.
-Tony
gtsdurango.net
'04 Dakota SLT Quad Cab V8 AWD/4x4 - current daily
'90 Turbo Grand Prix STE - Crane H260 Cam, Getrag 282 Swap, 1.6 Rockers, Homebrewn Mildly Ported/Polished Heads/Intakes, Intrax Front Lowering Springs, KYB GR2s, 34mm Sway Bar, CS FSTB, AWeb RSTB, ES Poly Sway Bar Bushings, Cooper Cobra 245 - I'm working on it...
'92 Gutless Supreme SL - Dead
'90 Turbo Grand Prix - RIP 6-15-05

turby

Quote from: idbeastI've had and seen where the PMIII does not push the rod between the brake pedal and the PMIII all the way back out causing the brake lights to stay on.

That's the problem in my CS. I ended up putting a spring on the pedal to pull it back the whole way.