Quote from: dbtk2

Quote from: GangstGPThe subframe off a 97-newer grand prix is way lighter I heard, cant remember if anybody has tried an aluminum subframe or not.

The thing is, do those subframes bolt in?  I'm not so sure they do (could be wrong though).  If you were gonna go through the trouble of swapping it, you might as well get one from a '00+ Monte Carlo to save an additional 40lbs. over the GP one, since the Monte one is aluminum.  This is a significant weight savings mod for the '97+ GP's.  

I'll be doing a bit of weight reduction to the STE here pretty soon so I'll fill you guys in on what I do, and what kind of weight savings it was.  I just need to invest in a nice scale first.

Shawn

I tore a subframe off a TGP just the other day and it is sitting in the corner under the redwood tree. If we could aquire a monte or gp (preferrably) aluminum we could compare specs.

The subframe off a 97-newer grand prix will not bolt on to a Pre 97 GP, and the Aluminum ones tend to break at the welds, many of the 97+ GP guys get these but have them rewelded and strengthened before installing. 8)

Quote from: GPChiefThe subframe off a 97-newer grand prix will not bolt on to a Pre 97 GP, and the Aluminum ones tend to break at the welds, many of the 97+ GP guys get these but have them rewelded and strengthened before installing. 8)

I did not expect it to be a direct swap :wink: My friend is going to school for welding and likes to work on turbo cars. so if its close....

Quote from: GPChiefThe subframe off a 97-newer grand prix will not bolt on to a Pre 97 GP, and the Aluminum ones tend to break at the welds, many of the 97+ GP guys get these but have them rewelded and strengthened before installing. 8)

I only know of a select few who are running this subframe, and of those I know of none of them have strength problems, I could be wrong though.


Shawn

For a reworked aluminum subframe I'd go for a steel tube formed unit. Welding aluminum aint cheap. Welding steel is. Steel is easy to work with. I was thining keeping the stock subframe. IF anything...remove chucks and weld lighter steel tube there. This is way out of my leage still. So the subframe is staying put.

So first off this is a basically a full drag car then?

Okay, if so, gut the entire interior, all you need in a race car in ONE seat, and make it the lightest most uncomfortable thing there is, you are in it for less than what 3 minutes at a time, your ass can take a 3 minute beating I'm sure :shock:  :P

Anyways, gut the interior, perhaps get that dash from that place I posted too?  Then just get autometer gauges all around, remove all the HVAC controls as well, you don't need heating/AC/Vent or anything in a drag car, how about a manual steering rack, drag cars don't turn, so power steering can be removed.  Drag cars only run for a short time, so you don't really need an alternator, and if you push it, you can probably get away with no water pump or get an electrical one, then you have no serpentine belt.  Then you could remove the radiator and fans, less weight, and have room for a big ass front mount intercooler.
Obviously the trunk stuff can all be removed.  Maybe a custom or FFP coil-overs for the back with the stiffest you can go to help prevent weight transfer.  Get 2 spares for the rear tires, since they do nothing anyways, get some light weight drag wheels for the front.  Could probably get some wide bastards since looks are out so could have them stick out a bit.  Remove all the power stuff from the interior too, power windows, locks, any wiring that isn't required at all.  Oh, and if you are REALLY into weight savings. DRILL HOLES in the chassis, yeah it doesn't sound like it would do much but my dad did it to his race cars where it wasn't need and saved quite a bit.  If you have the time, you can also do this to the block, shave any excess material that isn't needed.  Make sure the rear brakes aren't seized also, hell, maybe just don't use the rear brakes unless you get going too fast, they have long shut down areas so rear brakes aren't as big a deal.  After that, its just things here and their,,,,,,oh oh, and go on a diet for yourself? :P

you sayin Im overweight? Im 270 is that too much for a 6'8" frame? I am real sensitive about that subject!

J/K, I am actually not looking to gut the entire ride, but do want to significantly reduce the weight by shaving half pounds and ounces here and there while retaining the ability to have a streetable fun car for me and my friends. and since it will still be a passenger vehicle insured and driving around town, I will keep the back seats that are light as a stuffed animal, but they will have to be dyed black to match the front fake leather racing buckets. want to replace the carpet with thin black material, keep the dash, stereo(a little less wattage this time),heater, power steering, maybe lose the doors and put in fiberglass suicide or lambo doors, but then I would want opening windows, or at least a heavy F-ing sunroof. damn, that would actually still be semi-cool to have as a daily.

I still havent seen a set of wheels that I like yet that are super light. anybody got some in mind that fit 245s maybe 255s like the concept car had? I heard of this one dude who got gramlight wheels or some shit like that.

I know my buddy Jim who I just put a sick ass system in his Tercel, he drove around in a GTO all gutted and 1 seat roll cage car as a daily driver but would get pulled over a lot. probably must have been the built 455 on nitrous.

Keep ur alt, because as you go, it will drain the battery and give a weaker and colder spark, causeing less performance, its not like its THAT much of a drag on the motor, water pump, yes, keep it, power steering is probable an option, same with all the vents and a/c, if you have glass headlights, go with plastic or none

Quote from: ProspeederKeep ur alt, because as you go, it will drain the battery and give a weaker and colder spark, causeing less performance, its not like its THAT much of a drag on the motor, water pump, yes, keep it, power steering is probable an option, same with all the vents and a/c, if you have glass headlights, go with plastic or none

See here is the question, does Mr. GTU want a full blown race car, or still a "street" car.  What you say it a good ideas YES, but if its a race car, ALL weight savings and HP freeing up that can be had is a must and just a dry cell racing battery that is charged after every pass with fix your spark problem, i ran my car for like 2 days before the battery died with no alternator.  Driving with no power steering can suck with big/wide tires yes but probably could be do able, its not to bad when the car is moving.

Im kinda curious to see how much my Turbo CS weighs....

need to find a weigh scale somewhere where i can weight it correctly

Quote from: z284pwr

Quote from: ProspeederKeep ur alt, because as you go, it will drain the battery and give a weaker and colder spark, causeing less performance, its not like its THAT much of a drag on the motor, water pump, yes, keep it, power steering is probable an option, same with all the vents and a/c, if you have glass headlights, go with plastic or none

See here is the question, does Mr. GTU want a full blown race car, or still a "street" car.  What you say it a good ideas YES, but if its a race car, ALL weight savings and HP freeing up that can be had is a must and just a dry cell racing battery that is charged after every pass with fix your spark problem, i ran my car for like 2 days before the battery died with no alternator.  Driving with no power steering can suck with big/wide tires yes but probably could be do able, its not to bad when the car is moving.

You can get a pretty light alternator that would make virtually no weight difference and you just hook up a switch to it to turn it off during the run.  Then you know it will be putting no load on the engine during the run, then when you get done you turn it on again.  My friend did this in his Lumina that he drove everyday, and it actually made a noticable difference when he shut the switch off.

Shawn

yes, a 15v racing battery could be placed in there and unplug the alt. just have a hollow alt with good bearings.

I was just thinking of braket racing or something like that, maybe x-cross or rally onece in a while. One track I used to go to..vaigly anyone went faster than mid 11s. Only the fast guys were there on saturdays..even then it was mid 10s high 9s. I just want quick fun and money. Nothing too dramatic. Thats what my '63 is for.

In any event...the TGP is too heavy even for a street car. Reminds me of the late 60s Eldorado. All the power..but alot of weight.

Instead of dropping weight, just add a lot more power. :wink:  I'm not removing a single ounce from my current TGP(other than the spare tire/jack when I take it to the track).

Has anyone weighed a TGP yet? I believe TookyCat stated that he weighed his car in a recent thread, but he didn't mention what the results were.  I have two scales within a few minutes of my house(truck weigh station and one at a local sandpit), I'm going to call one of those soon and put my car on the scale.

My TGP weighed in at 3390 lbs(without me in it) with a 1/2 tank of gas when it was auto.  I think I dropped a few lbs from the 5 speed conversion, and I tossed the A/C in the trash.  I'm also switch to vaccum brakes soon and I'm sure that will save a couple lbs as the PowerMasterIII is big.   8)