What did you do for holes in the oiler tube? I've been thinking I might change the way I have mine set up to kinda the way that you have it, except it'd only be towards lobes 9/10. Finding a small enough nozzle to put on the end of mine has been kinda hard (Alemite makes some pretty nice pieces but finding a distributor isn't easy).

I smoothed out/enlarged the oil drainage areas in the heads so hopefully that should help some but I still want something on the end of the cam. that's the reason I had to take the damn motor apart to begin with. Running the tube that way, I only intend on little pin-prick holes in the tube so it doesn't flow too much, and I'll throw a cap fitting on the end.

here's a look at how mine's currently set up:
http://members.cox.net/odyssey37/images/tste/DSCN0277%20(Small).JPG

are those 3100 heads? or did you notch 3.1 heads for the roller fulcrum rockers?

edit: nevermind, I'll assume 3100 cause that's definetly not a 3.1 timing cover.

Quote from: mfewtrail on February 22, 2007, 07:07:49 AM
Looking good. :icon_mrgreen: What did you end up doing to get those manifolds to work on your ported heads? One more question... Is that oiling setup spraying along the entire length of the camshaft? ;)

I ended up using a different set of heads since mine were ported WAY to big for the exhaust, The second set of heads is a really good casting I didnt do anything to them except a 3 angle valve job & the LS6 springs, on the TGP exhaust manifolds I port matched to the "D" shape exhaust flanges and smoothed the edges some.   FYI a Carbide tip porting tool is the only way to do this IMHO.

As for the cam oiler I drilled holes for each lobe but with spinning the oil pump only the first 5 lobes get oil (possibly more pressure when the engine is running)  What I used was 2 brass fittings then a aluminium brake line that I just bent and pinched the end off of.  This was a good option for me since the end of the brake line is already flared & the fitting matched the brass plug going into the block.  However I am going to do it again and drill smaller holes to see of the oil will flow better to all holes this time.  I know # 10 is the one that goes out but why not oil all of them is my thinking.

Another thing that is not pictured that Kenny can attest to is that if you get a true roller timing chain then you will need to grind out your water pump housing in the shape of the timing chain to make it fit, I think I spent about 5 hours getting it to work.

As for power I have no idea, I just want the engine & tranny to run since they are both 100% rebuilt. :icon_eek:

I wonder if installing a brass tee in the block and then running two seperate lengths of tubing would be better than one longer one. :icon_quest