pressure plate bolts?  Just go to lowes and get some metric grade 8.8 bolts with lock washers.  You will be all set for under 10 bucks.  You need a engine mount?  On the front of the engine,  if so go to NAPA and ask for the solid rubber mount.......can't remember the year of the car but they have them.  Then you don't have to worrry about that pos hydralic on breaking.

Ken

lowes eh?  Ill give it a try.  Yea the motor mounts like 70 bucks or something.... crappy. i coulda spent that on a aldl cable dammit...

sweet, didnt know lowes caried 8.8 grade bolts , good to know.  Also got the motor mount, got a regular replacement, it was only 36 bucks at advanced auto, cant beat it.  If it doesnt rain tomorrow ill get the motor/trans in... i cant have the front of my house looking like this much longer...

Update!  motor and 5 speed are in,  plan on doing the linkage and CMC and slave assembly tomorrow,  well see how it goes... Hey is Ken kickin around?  gotta question, is there a bleeder on the slave assembly? I see a little screw but not sure...

Quote from: killinprixs on September 18, 2008, 06:29:50 PM
Update!  motor and 5 speed are in,  plan on doing the linkage and CMC and slave assembly tomorrow,  well see how it goes... Hey is Ken kickin around?  gotta question, is there a bleeder on the slave assembly? I see a little screw but not sure...

How to bleed a 282 slave cylinder

- use a scratch awl and a hammer and gently tap out the roll pin that is used to attatch the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder. some fluid will come out so hold a rag under it so it doesn't make a mess.

- remove the two 13mm nuts that hold the slave cylinder to the transmission. dump the old fluid out and set it aside for now.

- fill up a small clear container with new clean brake fluid - enough so that you can submerge the end of the hydraulic line and clearly see it.

- take the cap off the master cylinder reservoir and top it off with new brake fluid.

- have a friend get in the car and *slowly* pump the clutch pedal while you are holding the end of the hydraulic line in the container. some air should bubble out. make sure you top off the clutch master cylinder while you are doing this so you don't get air back into the system. it shouldn't take very many pumps to get the air out although you may want to do it longer to get old dirty fluid out if you need to. when you are done, have your friend hold the clutch pedal down to the floor and keep it there.

- once there is no more air coming out of the line, have another friend hold the slave cylinder at a 45* angle and fill it up with new brake fluid. with your other friend still holding the clutch pedal to the floor, reinsert the hydraulic line into the slave cylinder (make sure you lube the o-ring with brake fluid as well) and press the roll pin back into place. once the hydraulic line is attatched you can release the clutch pedal.

- reattatch slave cylinder to transmission.

- make sure master cylinder reservoir is topped off and replace cap.


This has worked for me and many others!

Good luck, it's a BITCH and there is no bleeder screw...

Bleed procedure per Adam :laugh:, pump the pedal 80 times and do this 3 times reps.  Continue until pedal comes up.  It works we had to do this on my friends 284 twin cam.  If your clutch and slave are still tied together, as in the hydralic lines are still sealed between the slave and the master, do not separate them!  Leave them together!!  You will only cause problems that might not be there!  Chances are the pedal trick will be all you need to get it going.

finally do not push the clutch without the master in the firewall and the slave in the transmission seated in the shift fork.  You could fuxxor it all up that way to!

Ken

thanks for the tips guys... i figured there were a few ways to do it... didnt even get to touch the CMC today... actually.... the axles i had made were supposedly for 89 GP 5 speed w/ the abs rings...  Driver side went in fine, passenger side went into the intermediate shaft but my wheel hub would NOT go on the spline .  Also this axle looked  a little short, could be wrong!  I tried to use the auto axle but it was harder to manuever and i didnt get to see if it fit the intermediate shaft... does anybody know what to do???!!! 

Get 88 5 speed axles and take the encoder wheel off your tgp axles and put them on your new 5 speed axles.  Adam told me once you can tap the encoder wheel off with a drift pin and a hammer and they fit on the 5 speed axles.  It is worth a shot at this point.  Good luck Ike!

Ken

whoever said the plug on the VSS was different between 4t60 and 282 is on crack i think.  2 cents for the day

That's worth a couple of dollars in my opinion.. :bonk:

picture of my shop...

Ok ike I thought I was hardcore but you are well.......I dunno man you got me beat!!  Good luck I'll give you a ring next time I'm passing through!

Ken

haha i dont know about that, little by little... we'll see what today brings.

Damn I'm spoiled, I just realized that   :laugh:    But that's pretty much how I started working on cars... 

Quote from: flybynite on September 27, 2008, 01:18:10 PM
Damn I'm spoiled, I just realized that   :laugh:    But that's pretty much how I started working on cars... 

I used to do most of my work like that years ago. It really sucked when it was in the middle of winter + windy as hell.